coast of costa

lingering parasailers in the fading light

our next destination was manuel antonio - another shuttle bus. this time it was back down the mountain and towards the southern coast. it was a longer drive so we made it there by late afternoon. our hotel was a series of buildings along the top of a hill, each room with its own anteroom open to the air with a lovely view of the pacific and a hammock to enjoy it in. we didn't have much of the day left but figured we couldn't go wrong with a trip down to the beach. we figured out the bus system - oddly the first time we'd used public transportation - and within a few minutes we were facing playa espadilla. we walked around, dipped our feet in the water, usual beach things.

don't be afraid

i still think it's so odd that we were in the pacific ocean and along the same longitude as georgia. eventually the sun began to go down - and it was a beauty. we watched people parasailing right up until the very last light of the sun glimmered from behind the rocks. as i was exploring i found a porous rock covered in holes and, more likely, thousands of little shells. it was glowing golden in the evening light and then i discovered little things scurrying all over it - tiny little crabs. they were understandably skittish but i managed to snap a few pictures of them anyway. it's amazing; if you look at something long and closely enough - a rock, a tree, a plant - you can usually find something pretty amazing.

finally the sun was really down and my mother dragged me away from the beach (although the view of the silhouetted palm trees at the bus stop wasn't bad either) and we headed back up the big hill. we stopped at a seafood (what else) restaurant not far from our hotel - apparently they had just opened that week. we had a very tasty meal of yellowfin tuna and shrimp before making it back to our hotel.

just hanging around

the next day was the highly anticipated visit to manuel antonio national park. we'd heard so much about it and had high hopes. it was just.. underwhelming. first, it was full of people who were all shuffling around the same dirt path, trying to crowd around their guide's telescope to see the insect or sleeping bat they've pointed out (oh goody). and our guide seemed pretty disinterested, pointing out things he knew were there because they'd probably been sleeping for hours and generally just interested in moving us along. we saw a grasshopper, some bats, raccoons (exotic) and a sleeping sloth that was really no more than a ball of matted fur. after hearing from another couple that they saw a mother and baby sloth hanging on a fencepost we were just dying with jealousy. i suppose it was not to be. at the end of our - very short, i might add - hike through the park we were deposited on the beach where we saw a very adventurous group of monkeys.

come on in, the water's fine

we had planned to make an afternoon of it, or a morning, at any rate. we changed in the tiny bathrooms (back up the hill) and made our way back down to the shore. the actual beach was quite small and full of white hot sand. we were concerned about leaving all our things unattended but in the end we figured taking turns in the water was no fun so we hid our stuff and resolved to keep an eye on it from the ocean. and it was lovely. no waves, of course, but perfectly warm water. eventually, though, hunger won out and we made our way back towards the other playa. we realized that if we walked behind the beach to the other shore and continued on around we could reach the edge of the beach we were at the day before. okay, i'm sure that didn't make any sense - just trust me on this one. we found a restaurant on the beach which seemed good enough for some decent seafood and cold drinks. then back to the hotel for a dip in the pool, since our bathing suits were already wet and all.

fruit truck

in the afternoon we figured we'd head to quepos (down the other side of the big hill) to see what the little town had to offer. a post office, we were hoping. we didn't find that but we did find a pharmacy. oh and this fun fruit on the back of a truck. there wasn't much to quepos - i was hoping for some colorful doors or peeling paint - but we did catch a very orange sunset and treat ourselves to some ice cream, the first and only time this trip. then back up the hill to an unremarkable dinner and an early night.

teeny tiny

our final day in manuel antonio was set for ziplining, which my mother was most excited about. i was just along for the ride, so to speak, and didn't think i'd really be all that into it. the guides were great though - very good about making sure everyone was comfortable and knew what to do. and it was fun! though you had to remind yourself to look around the beautiful canopy you were zipping through. i didn't go in for all the 'scream like george of the jungle' gimmicky stuff but i definitely enjoyed it more than i thought i would. then at the end as we were enjoying our snacks we were greeted by some very skittish squirrel monkeys. they're so tiny - they only weigh two pounds! and they were the last of the four indigenous costa rican monkeys, so we managed to see them all.

playa espadilla bids us a colorful farewell

then it was back through town and up the hill for lunch at the very top of the hill at agua azul, boasting a beautiful view of, yes, you guessed it, blue water. a very nice lunch, seafood again. not every place was just rice and beans, as the guidebook had cautioned. although the guidebook was so often wrong that's probably not even noteworthy. we decided to go back to the beach one last time, this time for a little actual relaxation. we rented chairs and an umbrella and everything. it was a little overcast but good for some reading. then before long the sun started to set so.. well, let's just say i was pretty busy for a solid 25 minutes. seemed like a fitting farewell to our stay on the coast.

tropical holiday

well i'd been itching for some international travel for quite some time. i managed to make a break long enough for a little sojourn in december, taking advantage of the christmas/new years holidays. my mother and i decided on costa rica (i voted for mexico, but no matter). we were both anxious for some international travel but didn't think we had enough time to venture too far.

we flew into san jose, naturally, of which we saw very little. we took a taxi directly to our hotel in alajuela around 10 in the evening, where we were greeted by the gregarious night owl owner and shown to a room that was practically on top of the local church. lovely view. we even managed to connect to the internet and watch part of wedding crashers in spanish before hitting the hay.

a rare glimpse at the lagoon below

up super early the next morning, we managed to watch the sun rise over the dome of the aforementioned church before heading down for a very quick breakfast. just as we were finishing, our taxi had arrived, set to shuttle us two sites up the mountain and back all before 1 so we could catch our next bus. ambitious, no? we first wound way, way up the mountain - marveling at our first real sights of costa rica along the way. what stood out most were the plentiful hydrangeas dotting the hillside and stands of fresh strawberries for sale around every bend in the road. our driver bought some and, thinking back, we should have, too. hindsight. we arrived at vulcan poás fairly early, in hopes of getting a good view of the volcano before the clouds completely obscured it. it was a bit of a walk to the actual crater overlook, and quite chilly at that hour (of course the one time on the trip when i misplaced my jacket), but we did stop to admire some interesting plant life along the way (and try out my very nice new camera). we lucked out and got a few glimpses of the lagoon inside the crater in between the rolling clouds that passed  - each view a little different than just seconds before. we never did get a totally clear shot but it's still pretty surreal to find yourself overlooking a volcano. it would've been nice to take the hike around the side of the crater - perhaps another time.

we hurried back a bit, eager to get to our next destination. we didn't see our driver at first so figured we'd give him a few minutes as we idly milled around the gift shop. deciding against any of their overpriced wares, we quickly made our way back outside. getting antsy now we searched the parking lot, wandered in and out of the cafe and even tried asking other drivers if they'd seen him (of course we had forgotten his name). we spent an anxious 20 minutes wondering what had happened to him before he approached us, somewhat sheepishly. i suspect he'd been having a little siesta in the cab. i tried to temper my annoyance when asking him what had happened but even so he seemed to feel bad so i backed off.

lovely patterns on this specimen

our next stop was the la paz waterfall gardens, a park and nature reserve that's quite secluded. the waterfalls were un-spectacular but the wildlife was wonderful. as we first entered, just a few feet away a coati was up on a feeding station having a snack, unfazed by our picture-clicking. i spent far too long admiring (and snapping pictures of) the butterflies in the butterfly house. fyi, if you want to test out the shutter speed on a camera, getting shots of butterflies isn't a bad way to do it. eventually my mother

such personality

prodded me to move along, but she didn't have much more luck with the bird house. all sorts of gorgeous birds! bright blues and emerald greens. making hilarious noises, too, i might add. i possibly spent even longer here, enjoying these beautiful creatures. and endlessly taking their pictures. we tried to move a little more swiftly through the other areas, though we did take some time to admire the brightly colored poison frogs and the nearly invisible tree frogs, as well as the elusive hummingbirds (my camera even passed that test, i'm happy to report). oh yes, and some waterfalls. ho hum. call me a killjoy but, apart from the biggies (victoria, niagara), i just don't get that jazzed about water falling down. still, we dutifully wound around the trail and ended up (where else) at a gift shop where a shuttle awaited us to return to the entrance.

from there it was back to the hotel, where we picked up our things and headed out. not finding any restaurants nearby (plenty of heladerias though) we opted to head toward the hotel where our bus would arrive. we made it there quickly and found the chicken joint our hotelier had suggested. inside it looked an awful lot like a chili's but, having few options, we went with it. good thing we did too - because it was some of the juiciest, most flavorful rotisserie chicken either of us had ever had. we savored it as best we could, nervous as we were about getting out to the bus stop. we needn't have worried because the shuttle bus was an expected 15 minutes late. still, we were glad to be in the right place and on the bus. we were in a large van with two other couples - both of whom seemed to talk endlessly. i wasn't interested in chit chatting or even eavesdropping, and their chatting made my reading nearly impossible. it was a rather annoying three hour ride, i'll admit. the scenery was pleasant enough - rolling green hills and coffee plantations. it was nearly dark when we finally reached la fortuna. our hotel (naturally) was the last stop, as it was a bit off the main road - over a very bumpy road we would later become well-acquainted with.

our hotel, villas eco arenal, seemed lovely but lacked a full-service restaurant. so after stretching our legs it was back into a cab and on our way into town. we walked around a bit before settling on what seemed to be a typical soda, the traditional simplistic cafe. we had the usual gallo pinto (rice and beans), some shredded pork and fanta, our vacation beverage of choice. the place seemed to be frequented by locals and we were happy with our meals.

orchids abound.. plus a little bug hanging on

the next morning we awoke early so i decided to take a leisurely stroll around the grounds. our hotel may have been a little farther removed from the town, but that afforded much more space which i think was well worth it. each room was in its own little cabin, and beyond them was a stream flanked by soaring palm trees and a little garden area that verged more on jungle territory.

purple plantains?

everything back there seemed to be tropical fuschia and bright green - even the plantains. i took my time trying to explore every plant from every angle in the low morning light. i even broke out the macro lens to try to capture the incredible flora and dewdrops. i must have been gone at least an hour and eventually my mom came to encourage me to head toward breakfast. it was delicious - perfectly fluffy scrambled eggs (accompanied by hot sauce) along with sausages, cheese and fresh fruit and juices. all this surrounded by chirping birds and tropical trees. a not altogether unpleasant way to start the day.

colorful companion

our first stop was to arenal hanging bridges, which we were both looking forward to. as we approached the start of the hike we had a lovely view of the active volcano, albeit from afar. it's hard to get too close to; even the river water nearby is more than 100 degrees. the major eruption in 1968 literally knocked out three towns, which is why the remaining one on the other side was renamed la fortuna. at any rate, our view of the volcano was made even more spectacular with this patient macaw preening himself and posing for the many cameras. i suppose the place must feed him periodically but he wasn't positioned there for our benefit, either. just a few minutes later i went back and he was gone. luckily we'd seen him in time to snap a few pictures of the beautiful bird.

our subsequent hike was perhaps not quite as stunning, but lots of fun. the majority of the hike was along trails on the edge of the rainforest on these not-so-great waffle-looking stones. the views were lovely though.

over and out

i guess i thought there would be more color but everything was just so green. incredible variety of plants, but all in one basic hue. at times it was even too dark to get decent pictures of plant details because the vegetation was so dense. the walk was punctuated, of course, by the hanging bridges. pretty amazing to walk so high above the rainforest floor, on just a suspended piece of metal. i had thought it might be nerve-wracking but i actually felt very secure, even looking down. what i worried about most was dropping my lens cap down all those hundreds of feet.

aptly named, as he was howling

we didn't see much wildlife throughout the hike, besides the hundreds of diligent leafcutter ants dutifully carrying their leaves - amazing to watch. one highlight, though, was the howler monkey we saw up close. he was showing off, howling and screeching atop one of the bridge cables (and of course backing up traffic with eager tourists). we were told later that they're the second loudest mammal in the world, after the blue whale. i'd believe it. we realized then that that was the animal we'd been hearing from our beds in the morning, not dogs. we learned later he was probably a male ousted from the group, now traveling on his own. judging by the sound of it, he didn't seem too happy with the arrangement.

maria and the mountain

we finished our walk and had a nice little lunch in their cafe, complete with a volcano-shaped mound of rice, topped with a tiny shrimp. then it was back to the hotel, where we rested our legs and soaked our feet poolside, as we journal-ed and postcard-ed. then out for our dusky evening hike around 4. we were picked up (as is standard with many such excursions) by the company in a larger shuttle van and carted over to the west side of the arenal volcano - the side whose towns were largely destroyed. we started off fairly close (well relatively speaking) to the volcanoes for some great views. there always seem to be clouds right above so i suppose they're actually smoke plumes pouring out of the volcano. incredible to think it could literally erupt at any moment. i enjoyed the view and also the pretty little plants down below. this pink number, our guide told us, is just called maria. or maybe he just made something up so i'd stop asking. he was very knowledgeable though, and led us through a path in the forest, pointing out all sorts of flora and fauna. there were some courting toucans that were just too far to see, although easy enough to hear. and, as we got deeper into the forest, massive termite homes on the sides of trees, bats flying up in the canopy, and monkey families high up in the foliage. we learned that most of the plant life in the rainforest doesn't touch the ground at all; it's growing on another plant. this explains why we saw bromedliads, like orchids, growing everywhere. i don't always like being led around by a guide but he was very knowledgeable and didn't rush anyone taking photos. so i approve.

after our hike we were dropped off in town to do a little exploring. we made it to a grocery store (plantain chips!) and a bookstore (pens for postcards!) before dinner, which we had at a little place that had been recommended. decent little steaks and delicious fruit shakes. we noticed the owner made a point of shaking everyone's hand before they left; she seemed very genuine. then back to the hotel to fight to stay awake until 10 again. vacations are exhausting!

sleepy sunbathing

the next day i was up early (around 6.. eesh) yet again so i spent it tramping around. it was a little cloudier but i still enjoyed finding spiderwebs and little buds to photograph. then breakfast with rice and beans plus delicious eggs. our bus arrived, this time with everyone on board before us, and then we headed back down the bumpy road. sorry, everyone! should've picked us up first! we had only gone about 40km before we stopped at the restaurante las iguanas. guess what they're famous for. go ahead, guess! as you may have surmised, the tree next to the eponymous cafe was full of iguanas. let me tell you, these guys make wonderful photography subjects because a) they're lazy and b) they enjoy lying in the sun. ah, an animal after my own heart. we were able to get some pretty good views and did even see a few move once in a while.

herons in flight

it was a quick pit stop, then we were back on the bus on our way to the caño negro wildlife refuge. once there, we piled onto a boat and began our river tour. the rio frio (a misnomer; evidently it's not cold at all) was rather brown and unremarkable, ditto the overcast sky. the wildlife made up for the lackluster scenery though.
our guide, again very good, pointed out all sorts of birds, including herons, anhingas and egrets.

curious little monkey

we even got close enough to the riverbanks to spot caimans sitting on the water's edge and bats sleeping on the underside of tree branches. we saw spider monkeys swinging from tree branches (how stereotypical) and even some very timid-looking white-faced monkeys venturing out on branches over the river. we did see one sloth (the holy grail of costa rican wildlife spotting) but, alas, it was up in the top of a tree and probably not coming down anytime soon. sigh. at any rate, once our boat had made it back to land we had a lunch of.. rice and beans, plus some veggies and rice pudding (more rice!). then back on the bus and back towards la fortuna. we had our christmas eve dinner in the fancy restaurant in town (which was mainly possible because we elected to eat at the bar; that place was hoppin'). peppery shrimp and scallop pasta and fancy crab and tilapia risotto. rice three times in one day, whoops.

as close as we could get

we awoke christmas morning, again early, and exchanged our final (and smallest) gifts before breakfast. we had a leisurely morning chasing down red-breasted blackbirds and yellow kiskadees (mostly unsuccessfully) before another delicious breakfast. then a trip to our splurge for the day - tabacón hot springs resort. we skipped the buffet lunch and opted for a day pass to the resort and it was as incredible as expected. it's the only hot springs that don't use any pumps or mechanical devices, just the natural force of gravity and the heat from the magma underneath the volcano.

i approve of this waterfall

we changed our clothes, got our locker and went to scope out a place to claim for our own for a while. the complex is incredible - dozens and dozens of waterfalls and lagoons over smooth rocks. there were lots of small secluded areas so that you could go hours without seeing any of the other hundred-odd people who were surely at this resort. to get to each spot you had to follow a maze of paths and bridges, which made it nearly impossible to know when you've seen the entire place. we got in the first pool near our lounge chairs - heavenly. hovering somewhere in the 90s and it felt like a dream. how surreal to know this water was heated by magma in a volcano and then cascaded down to fill the pool i was sitting in. we alternated between hot and cooler pools, interspersed with leisurely reading and cocktails in canopies under the shadow of the volcano. paradise, in other words. later in the afternoon we tried to see the rest of the grounds, happening upon more unusual plant life as well as an armadillo - who was so intent on eating whatever it was he was eating that we barely even registered. after another dip and another walk it began to get dark and we resigned ourselves to the fact that we'd eventually have to say goodbye to the glorious hot springs and change for dinner. our christmas dinner, buffet though it was, did not disappoint. i only wish i'd had room for more; everything was incredibly flavorful. all in all, a perfect christmas day.

more than the mitten

after hearing about my whirlwind bombay-turkey-baltimore-richmond-boston-newyork-michigan itinerary some people said, 'don't you ever get tired of traveling?' to which i would respond with a quizzical 'of course not!' (is such a thing possible?) so from new york it was on to detroit to meet with good friends.

we didn't spend long in detroit, just long enough to have some crêpes, head to a good ol' american backyard barbeque (although some canadians were present) and stop at a local brewery (royal oak, quite good). then we were on the road. our destination: the upper peninsula. in just a few hours we found ourselves surrounding by evergreens and heading over deep blue waters. once into the UP we stopped for some essentials (local beers, homemade beef jerky and goofy fridge magnets) and continued on toward our first campsite in munising. we pitched our tent before dark and got set for the main task at hand, cooking by campfire. (the lesson here: always go camping with good cooks, indian if possible. food takes a while but it's worth it - definitely the best food i've ever had at a campsite.) between michigan beers, hookah, and our indian spread it was a great first night.

first of the falls

the next morning we set out to see the local landscape, beginning with some of the many falls in the area. well, after a leisurely breakfast, about half an hour of souvenir shopping (note: that would be the three guys and not me, the sole female) and a stop for gas, that is. some of the falls were just steps from the road and others we had a short hike to get to. one of the latter was on our way into pictured rocks national lakeshore, right on the banks of lake superior. i'm not hugely enamored of waterfalls, unless they're particularly spectacular, but these were nice enough.

a superior lake, indeed

our next destination was the real showstopper: miner's castle rock. the view is stunning, the crystal clear turquoise waters, the sweeping shoreline with jutting cliffs and tufts of evergreens. we must have spent 20 minutes there, just marveling at the sight, taking nearly identical pictures again and again, unable to resist the urge to click. we eventually dragged ourselves away and made our way towards our big hike to the shore. by now it was mid-afternoon. it was a long hike to be sure, and we were in the woods for a good portion of it.

lone kayak

finally we made it to the water. golden sands right up to the placid blue water. and freezing, of course, being nearly in canada. didn't stop us from dipping our toes in, of course. in fact my three friends decided to strip down and enjoy one of the nearby waterfalls (much warmer water there) while i wandered along taking pictures. (i don't think they enjoyed the inevitable chaffing when they got back into their now-wet clothes.) the weather was perfect and we had a vista to match, which made it awfully hard to drag ourselves away and continue on our hike.

lone tree

but onward and upward, back towards the cliffs that overlook the water. we continued on until we were just starting to get a good look at those sparkling waters. we could see where the trail continued, tracing the edge of the lake with intermittent breaks in the edge to enjoy the view. it was then, though, that i had to point out that it was nearly 6pm and going to get dark soon. we had already been hiking for several hours and wouldn't be able to finish the loop. we'd have to turn back and soon, just to make it back before dark. this was met with frustration and annoyance by my friends, who could see (as i could) that the views would only get better. much as i wanted to see more i knew we'd have to turn around or risk getting stuck in the dark woods with no lights. this didn't seem to be a deterrent for my friends who insisted they'd 'figure it out'. despite their stubbornness we did eventually turn around, blaming me for their missed opportunities. sometimes it's hard being the voice of reason (read: only woman). and i didn't even point out that if some people hadn't lollygagged through breakfast or spent a half hour shopping for silly knick knacks (my impatience was always met with 'what's your rush?') we might have had more time for what certainly would have surely been spectacular views. sigh!

as we made our way to the end of the trail it was already starting to get dim, particularly in the shade of the evergreens (again i held my tongue!). we made for the car and headed straight back to the campsite, ready for a big dinner. dinner this time was hot dogs and whatever food we had left over, again washed down with some local brews.

well it did have a nice fire pit

the next morning, after lingering over breakfast and packing up, it was out of the U.P. and back to the mitten. this time we headed down the west side (the pinky, i guess?) to traverse city, which promised to be an adorable town. the drive was more than four hours and by the time we arrived at our campsite it was already starting to get dark. the campsite, if it can be called that, was not what we'd expected. we were surrounded by RVs and pitched our tent on gravel. the whole campsite (fine, RV park) was just off a big road - we could actually see a storage facility and a home depot just down the road. so we swapped the starry skies and woodsy campsite for the lights of cars passing on the highway and the hum of nearby generators. ah well. we restocked our food supplies (one plus: the grocery store was just down the road) and were once again treated to fireside indian fare, courtesy of our master chef.

summer on a fork

another day, another slow morning. there's no rushing these guys, as you may now have surmised. in fact by the time we made it into town it was practically lunch time. we stopped at the grand traverse pie company for sandwiches and soup. and pie, of course (how could we not?), which was full of michigan blueberries, and thoroughly delicious.

the drop-off

finally we were off to sleeping bear national lakeshore, a bit of a drive. we stopped first at the visitors center to get our bearings (bear-ings. get it?) at this point i don't think i have to tell you that my companions spent a chunk of time reading the posted material and purchasing magnet.. eventually we also determined which hikes would be best. we took a few of the short scenic drives before making our way to what was by far the biggest sand dune i have ever seen. essentially a sheer drop down to the lake, it must have been nearly a half-mile to the water's edge! i'm sure that's an absurd exaggeration but believe me when i say the people at the bottom were absolute specks. the view was almost surreal - the plateau tapering off into a nearly vertical mound of sand that seems to fade into some of the bluest, most ethereal water you've ever seen. you have the impression that if you go down too far you'll eventually tumble and just keep sliding all the way to the bottom. or, like my two half-witted friends, you may stupidly decide to go down intentionally. it's true, many people had decided to make the trek up and down. however these people seemed, well, fit, and as though they knew what they were in for. my two buddies ran giddily down without so much as a bottle of water - which they later regretted - but with the car keys still in their pocket - which we all regretted when it took them more than an hour to reach the top again. running down was all too easy, and they were happy to splash about in the blue waters of glen lake. but coming back up was complete misery (according to them). for every step they took forward they seemed to slide a half-step back. before long they had taken off their shirts and wrapped them around their heads (a tad melodramatic, perhaps. this was, after all, michigan, and not the sahara). we tried tracking their progress but soon grew bored and instead tried to count how many people went down and back in the time it took them to trudge a few dozen meters. they stopped constantly - once to vomit, we later learned - and by the time they finally made it to the top, just flat out collapsed, exhausted.

views from our second hike

while we had a ball mocking them for their shortsightedness (literally, perhaps - that hill did not look nearly as long as it was) our major detour had cost us the time for another hike that had sounded so nice. not only that but soon after we found out that people aren't meant to climb up or down that hill at all - it's a major cause of erosion which is already a problem, as you might expect of a sand dune that leads to the water. there's another sand dune that's supposed to be used specifically for running and climbing up and down. oops.

we pressed on to our next hike, one that took us through fields of queen anne's lace and other little wildflowers, sandy bluffs and views of the lake under a now cloudy sky. we felt a few sprinkles but mainly the passing wind and threatening clouds just made the scene look all the more dramatic. upon finishing this loop we made our way towards the small beach where we celebrated our various victories with a few UP brews (one must always have beers on hand for such an occasion) and a dip in the lake. it was cold at first, as one might expect, but actually tolerable.

doesn't get much more local

our final stop of the day was perhaps the most rewarding. we just had to try MOOmers, local homemade ice cream with its own dairy farm. (there's a shop in downtown traverse city too, but what fun is that?) evidently it's been voted the best ice cream in america (by whom, i'm not sure). i can see why - something about enjoying creamy delicious ice cream while overlooking fields of the cows that helped produce it just makes you feel good. we gobbled ours down as we watched said cows lazily graze in the field as the sun started to set.

from there it was back to the campsite for one more night of campfire cooking (read: use up all the leftover food) and the next morning we were off. we made one last stop in the town of traverse city (there were used bookstores to scope out!) which is certainly quite cute. i can see why it's been named one of the cutest towns in america - although i wouldn't want to be around for the arctic winds coming off that lake in the winter. from here it was back on the road to detroit. we may not have exactly made the most of every excursion we had but i will say i'm glad i finally got to experience more than the mitten.

old new york

every year or so i get this nagging desire to go back to new york. i've been there probably half a dozen times by now, each time for only a day or two. and, while it would have been nice to get to attend the opening of the new islamic art wing in the met (i don't know how i got invited either), i figured sometime after i got back would have to suffice. so from boston i hoped a bus down to new york - and at $12 it was more expensive than both my legs from dc to boston combined. i should preface this by saying that this is by no means a 'what to do on your first trip to new york'. it's not a statue of liberty/empire state/museum (well okay i went to a couple of those) kind of visit. each time i'm in the city i cross a few more items off my never-ending list of its offerings.

can't go wrong with tiles

i arrived in the city around midday and made my way to brooklyn where i was set to stay at my bombay roomie's former place. it's a great place right in fort greene, with bay windows and apparently a rotating group of students and young people cycling in and out over the summer. so one more person didn't seem to matter much. i quickly headed out to grab a late lunch and ended at up at olea, a self-described mediterranean taverna. and what's dining in new york good for if not feeling like you're somewhere else? i had some kind of flatbread with tomatoes and nuts and enjoyed the discarded NY times.

mixed media

then it was over to manhattan, where i was all set to meet some friends for a trip to the met. we'd first met while spending a summer in jordan studying arabic so i had hoped the islamic wing wouldn't be too uninteresting for them. we were not to be disappointed. i wouldn't have expected anything less, frankly, with a reinstall taking as long as this one did. quite literally every time i went to the met (in other words every time i'm in new york) i checked the second floor in hopes of finding the islamic wing finished. always, i was disappointed. i believe this reinterpretation was eight years in the making. well worth it. the many galleries were grouped thematically and geographically, and even included a section for contemporary art. architectural elements are incorporated wherever possible, as with the little tiled niches (originally mihrabs) or the complete moroccan courtyard. (check out this video for some idea of the level of detail that went into its construction.) my friends were just as captivated as i was (or they were very good sports) and put up with my incessant picture taking and endless lingering over ceramic tiles. i was very happy to test out my iphone - much easier for museum photos, and quite a good camera too.

circle takes the square

after thoroughly soaking up the islamic wing, josh, randa and i set out for an evening snack before they had to head back to new jersey. we enjoyed some fancy soups and then unfortunately had to go our separate ways, just as some rain started to fall. i made my way downtown and met the new roommates for a movie at the IFC center, where i had fond memories of seeing the helvetica movie. that's right, people, i paid eleven dollars to watch a documentary about a typeface. here instead it was kumaré, a documentary about a man posing as a guru. having just returned from india it brought up a lot of conflicting emotions about the exploitation of exported indian culture and people's idea of spirituality in general. we discussed this, appropriately, over dosas at a little indian cafe where i had to physically restrain myself from singing along with the faint hindi tunes i could hear. from here i followed the brooklynites to a number of bars that could have easily been in richmond - a mix of craft beers, PBRs and bar games.

torana arches on a jain temple or park slope, brooklyn?

the next day i was up and out the door early to enjoy the brooklyn flea market, conveniently located about a 2 minute walk from my temporary apartment. i couldn't bring myself to shell out the 12 bucks for the lobster roll i'd heard so much about but instead treated myself to a dulce de leche donut. probably the first donut i'd had in.. years? i wandered the market, both admiring the wares and appalled at the prices. if there's one thing i know it's appropriate flea market prices. (no matter, i found a yard sale a few blocks away and scored some necklaces.) i did, however, get a few vintage buttons that should make an awesome ring.

there's probably some metaphor for meditation here

from there it was back to manhattan and into midtown. i began at the rubin museum of art (just can't get away from south asia) where i saw lots of buddhas, and thankfully plenty of other deities too. and some lovely mughal manuscripts too. from there i bounced around the flatiron district, popping into cafes for the occasional scone with lemon curd or cup of coffee. up to the flatiron building, which has to be one of my favorite landmarks, across from which i stopped for a break. i realized i was just opposite the famous shake shack and tried to determine if my low to moderate hunger was worth the wait in the enormous line. in the end my impatience won out. walking again under the shadow of the flatiron i spied a crowd starting to gather. it was none other than heidi klum, filming what looked like a commercial. i ogled for a minute or two and then continued walking over to the strand - 18 miles of books, and i can't seem to leave with out one or two. it's like south bombay all over again.

harbor dusk

after a much-needed respite and very overdue phone date in union square i was feeling refreshed and ready to tackle the evening. that meant meeting up with aforementioned hosts at the south street seaport. i don't think i'd ever been there. and frankly it's pretty cheesy. sort of baltimore's inner harbor meets shopping mall plus probably a bubba gump shrimp restaurant for good measure. but the view of the boats on the river and skyscrapers behind was unique. and the sunlight fading behind the brooklyn bridge? well that's pretty magical. we lingered there and half heartedly listened to the live music accompanied by a handful of tourists breaking out their moves. then realizing we were hungry and that we'd rather not eat at TGIFriday's we set off on foot. we weren't sure where we were headed at first but eventually ended up in little italy, probably about a mile away. and cheesy as it might be, there's something rather lovely about dining al fresco, enjoying your spaghetti bolognese under the perpetually hanging lights. with the stream of tourists walking past and the late day summer heat lingering in the air, you could almost believe you were in italy. a fitting end to any trip to new york; some things never get old.

goodbye, brooklyn

 

breezing through boston

well, i made it back to the states. after taking care of some necessities (orioles game. friends and family. museums) and making some quick stops in DC and richmond i did what anyone would do after being gone for 10 months.. i got on a series of buses to visit a city i've never been to. thanks to megabus and my knack for planning way ahead, i had scored some very affordable tickets and, after many hours of travel and some fitful bus sleeping, arrived in boston, greeted by early morning light. walking out of south station i found myself in the middle of boston's business district, too early yet for even the busiest of businessmen.

of railings and rowhouses

i managed to make it to my friend yasmeen's place, a friend whom i hadn't seen since my summer in jordan. (she doesn't have facebook either so, you know, it feels like even longer.) she lives in one of these charming brick townhomes and swirling wrought iron railings. the inside is what i like to think many of these boston interiors look like - a dark corridor filled with musty furniture and turkish carpets. her place was similarly haphazard, full of antique furniture but littered with the textbooks and notepads you'd expect of a busy law student. despite my early arrival, my gracious host treated me to some vegan 'chocolate' pancakes and fancy maple syrup which i enjoyed in a well-appointed green velvet chair.  

we spent our morning catching up while also running some errands yasmeen needed to tend to before her upcoming trip. along the way we stopped for lunch at veggie galaxy (noticing a theme here?) where we supped on some very tasty veg food and vegan milkshakes (which, apparently, if you're vegan, are a very big deal).

as it grew closer to evening we made our way back to yasmeen's and i planned to head to the MFA, quite proud of myself for arriving on their one free evening a month. which made me even more incensed when, encountering a locked door, i was curtly informed that the museum was closed for a private event. after expressing my disappointment, having planned this quite literally months in advance, i was told it was on the website. after leaving in a huff, i did some fact checking. turns out it is on the calendar of events... listed after about 18 other events occurring on that day.. which can only be reached by going through several screens. it's very possible i will hold this against the MFA forever. only time will tell.

rosy skies over a cheery gazebo

perhaps in a way it was for the best. instead of meandering the halls of the MFA, yasmeen and i had a little more time together. we walked the streets of harrison. mostly residential.. charming colonial townhouses punctuated by community gardens and corner cafes. we grabbed some kebabs (well felafel for my friend) in a little mediterrean place and talked to the proprietors as we treated ourselves to ice cream, too. yasmeen, it seems, has been much better at keeping up with her arabic.. then back to yasmeen's where her friends dropped by and we capped off the evening with a nice indian movie. i didn't even it make it through half (which, to be fair, with an indian movie is typically the duration of an entire hollywood one) before konking out. i guess an early morning that starts on a bus can have that effect on you.

hahvad yahd

the next day yasmeen set out early on her long drive to toronto and bid me, and her house (where she was graciously letting me stay), farewell. i was off on the bus to do some exploring of my own. one easy bus ride over the bridge and i found myself in cambridge. stepping off the bus i found myself in front of harvard and its ivy gates. i didn't linger long but i did enjoy a walk across the quads and between stately buildings.

cheery cafe stop

having finished with harvard (probably a tad faster than most students) i explored cambridge, making my way towards harvard square. along the way i popped into bead shop and found no shortage of bookstores (go figure). i punctuated my walking with much-needed respites at mediterranean cafes, of which the area seems to have no shortage. algiers cafe and andala coffee house were welcome breaks from the heat with cozy interiors and middle eastern touches (which i think adds to just about any decor). i've always heard that boston is a walkable city, so walk i did. all down mass avenue (which by the way has one of the best goodwill book selections i've ever seen. and i've seen quite a few), past the MIT campus and over the longfellow bridge. and did i mention how hot it was? if you thought new england in june wouldn't be well into the 80s, you'd be mistaken.

come sail away

though i was in a hurry i lingered over the longfellow bridge, with its picturesque salt and pepper shakers and sailboats below. one has the feeling those sailboats are always there; it must be one of the better views of boston. sweating by now and walking briskly to make up for all that picture-taking time, i at at last made it to the MTA stop on the far side of the bridge. side note: did you know boston's fare cards are called charlie cards? i confirmed this is a tribute to the kingston trio song about the ill-fated charlie and the boston MTA, a fact which delighted me, remembering the song vividly from my childhood.

the hot sun still shining brightly, though it was nearly 5, i made my way toward the harbor. i met an old college friend at the barking crab, where i was advised to go for beer and seafood. can't argue with that. we sat in what was essentially a covered picnic area with long continuous wooden tables. a huge party one table over was just finishing up what must have been 1000s of dollars' worth of lobsters. we were a little less ambitious, opting for beer and clams. i'm not actually sure if i'd ever had clams before (outside of a chowder) but on the water in new england seemed like the right time to start.

representing infinity

next up was the ICA - institute of contemporary art - on what just happened to be its free night of the month. (do you see how perfectly i had planned this out?? curse you, MFA!) we poked around the permanent collection and checked out the brand new exhibition from josiah mcelheny, some pictures of the infinite, a really fun installation that plays with ideas of time and space. and were also quite photographable. we sauntered slowly through the galleries, poked through the store and made our way out. almost as good as the artwork, though, were the views from the many windows out onto the harbor. i do love cities on the water.

oh look, more sailboats

from there allison and i had a leisurely stroll around fan pier, across the bridge and over to the harbor, parts of which seemed very much like georgetown to me. not having quite had our fill from our seafood hors d'oeuvres, we sought out some more libations. we stumbled upon blue inc. where we sampled some great small plates and fancy cocktails. it was lovely catching up and a great end to a wonderful whirlwind trip to beantown.

and i can say for certain i'll be back. there's so much i didn't see.. the city's unique history, some architectural gems and, the way i see it, the MFA still owes me a free visit.

strolling through stamboul

after our last overnight journey it was back to istanbul. after some snacks and phone games we hunkered down for another night of bus sleeping, pros by now. in the morning we were shuttled off the bus to a parking lot where we waited for a van to (we hoped) deposit us downtown. it worked out and by 10 or so we found ourselves back in - where else? - good old taksim square.

we made our way back down tarlabaşı boulevard, that wide avenue lined with restaurants and shops. we were in search of a cheap spot for a bit of lunch but it seemed we were a tad early. after some slight soul-searching we settled on mcdonald's because, man, that soft serve looked good. judge us if you must.

just a little fishin' hole

then the name of the game was shopping. courtney only had a few hours remaining in the city so it was time to pick up gifts - turkish delight, fresh pepper, evil eyes, spices, that sort of thing. we wandered through some alleys near taksim and got what we needed, electing not to venture across the river to the chaotic bazaar (although we did stop to admire all the fishing poles along the bridge). we made our way up towards galata, where we found some turkish music shops for a CD and music recommendations and some slightly more unique crafts. here we found a lovely streetside eatery for lunch. much more accommodating about swapping bread for rice than elsewhere (thankfully!), although the iskender kebab i had paled in comparison to the ones in bursa. i guess that's the risk you take having the real thing.

a tableful of treats & tea

we did some more meandering and people-watching around taksim and made our way to a cafe where we found we could have a plateful of assorted turkish delights and baklava. seemed like an ideal spot to spent our last hours together. we recapped the trip and lingered over tea, but eventually it was time for courtney to catch her bus to the airport (coughfourhoursearly). thus abandoned, i made a few essential stops (read: internet cafe) and caught up on some journaling. when dinnertime rolled around i took my time deciding between various outdoor establishments. the owners' cajoling did little to entice me (quite the reverse actually) and i settled on a place where i could get a nice platter and a cold beer without being troubled too much. there was a soccer match on inside, which might have helped with the latter. i spent a pleasant hour eating and writing postcards before making my way back north to büşra's place where, by now, she would have returned from university.

don't worry, she wasn't really touching it

while sad to have been left by my good friend, i was very fortunate in having büşra as a host and guide. she really helped me see a side of istanbul i never would have. we started off taking the bus downtown and made our way to the central touristy spot. our first stop was the turkish and islamic art museum, which was first on my list (not a surprise, if you know anything about me). we both delighted in the beautiful examples they had - elaborate illuminated Qur'ans, carved wooden boxes, iznik tiles.. so much more. turns out büşra shares my love for traditional carpets. (i don't usually include many people shots, but isn't she just adorable?) we steppe out the large wooden doors and into the green courtyard just as the call to prayer was beginning at the blue mosque. a lovely end to our visit. actually the real end to our visit was the gift shop, which was full of postcards and bookmarks of tiles, which i also found lovely.

we thought of trying to go in said mosque but it was particularly crowded so we thought better of it. i was itching to go to haggia sophia (since the last time i'd been there was massive scaffolding all the way up to the dome) and büşra thought she might take the time to go pray. she would have probably joined me but for the cost of admission, which is prohibitive. i myself was on the fence about going, despite really wanting to get a good look at the interior. but büşra graciously offered to let me use her student pass for a discount (not terribly ethical of us, perhaps. but her heart was in the right place, and really i'm just as poor as most students.) i tried to get in unnoticed when, much to my chagrin, i was pulled aside and questioned for not being 'büşra.' so much for that, i thought. well my ordeal was far from over. before i knew what was happening they had confiscated my friend's card and said i couldn't get it back until she came. i protested, explaining that she would be gone for over half an hour and that it was a nice gesture on her part that she shouldn't be punished for. i stubbornly waited at the ticket window, saying i'd wait as long as i needed to, until the brutish cashier called for a guard to come escort me away. the guard came over, looking apologetic and asked if i'd step to the side, which i did. i continued to wait and the macedonian oaf of a cashier (fear not, turks, this was not one of your compatriots) had himself a little power trip, mocking me and telling me off. when my friend returned i sheepishly explained to her what had happened and, even still, they wouldn't give her back the card! and, bear in mind, she was much more graceful and tactful than i! ugh. feeling pretty lousy for having her card confiscated i apologized profusely, but büşra, been the sweet person she is, brushed it off good-naturedly.

doesn't get much more turkish than this

we decided to forget that unpleasantness over some lunch, in a bustling upstairs eatery just off the main square. a good meal, and not too pricey considering its touristy locale. next we made our way into sultan ahmat (the blue mosque) despite the crowds who, we figured, were always going to be there. the interior is as charming as i remember - soaring domed ceilings, dappled light from the stained glass and chandeliers suspended over our heads. but still full of people, and quite a difference from the tranquility of the sülemaniye mosque a few days before. from there we made our way downhill toward a shopping area i remembered visiting years ago. my friend patiently accompanied me as a searched for some factory-made tiles suitable for making a tray (felt weird to be passing up the handmade goods, which seemed to be more abundant). thought touristy, this seemed like our best bet for finding what i was looking for, which we eventually did. then it was time for a stop and another turkish treat - backgammon! accompanied by çay of course. (amazing how many culture love their tea, isn't it?) in fact i think i may have learned backgammon from a friendly carpet salesman in that very spot years earlier.

simit, mosque - very istanbul

our lokma

we continued on, winding our way through the streets until we reached the water. it was the beginning of that golden hour, when the afternoon gives way to evening and the sunlight over the water was beautiful. near the bridge families gathered for street food and, most likely, a break from the chaos of the nearby bazaar. simit, rings of bread with sesame seeds, seems to be particularly ubiquitous. we opted instead for lokma, a sweet, syrupy tread pretty that's somewhat similar to gulab jamun (sorry, still thinking in terms of india). büşra said it wasn't the best sampling but i had little to compare it with and was happy enough. side note: does it seem like my days/pictures revolve around food..? well perhaps they do.

evening sets in on the golden horn

onward! by bus, this time, to pierre loti hill. ol' pierre, as you may have guessed, was a frenchmen by birth but lived and wrote novels in istanbul, his writings garnering him a hill in his name as well as some criticism from later turkish writers. the hill, as you might expect in a 'city of seven hills,' was quite high and required a cable car trip. (is is me or does it seem like a lot of cities claim to be built on seven hills? edit: upon very cursory searching i uncovered wiki-corroboration) the destination is popular, resulting in a long line with a mix of people from pre-teen girls on an early summer outing to a bride and groom. we made it to the top, though, and just as the sun was set and the sky was fading from gray to blue. it was a lovely sight - istanbul is replete with those, it seems. we watched as each of the mosques dotting the hillside lit up and boats floated up and down the golden horn. when we were satisfied we walked along pierre loti cafe, filled with couples out for a romantic evening and families out for a holiday.

another food shot

it was dark and getting chilly so we made our way back down and onto another bus (so nice to have locals with you who know the bus routes!) back north to boğaziçi where we stopped along büşra's street for some pide, often described as turkish pizza. it was an unassuming place, with simple booths and several students milling about but, man, was that stuff delicious! i left full and very happy. once back at büşra's place we had plans to watch a movie but we were both so tired we just conked out.

so much bread!

up early the next day, we started out at a place on the corner with a big breakfast of bread (still very grateful to have fluffy bread back in my life) and tea. this proved to be good fuel for a big day of exploring. we started on foot, walking through the university campus, which was pretty similar to a college campus you might see in the states. interesting fact: they tried putting in a starbucks where one of the student cafés was but everyone just wanted çay so eventually they took the starbucks out in favor of the former café. i wonder how many times that's happened! we walked towards the water at the top of the hill and along the remnants of the wall of rumelihisarı castle, a fortress built by mehmet the conquerer, an ottoman sultan, in the 15th century. not a bad site to border your college.

castle, yalı, cafe: istanbul through the ages

we made our way downhill and ended up right along the water. we walked up the street, passing beautiful homes and bistros that somehow reminded me of san francisco. maybe it was the seagulls along the water, or the bridges we were passing under, but something reminded me of the west coast waterfront. one clear difference was the sporadic siting of the traditional wooden houses, or yalı, which i was more aware of, having just finished orhan pamuk's description of them in istanbul. a thoroughly pleasant stroll on a beautiful, blue-skyed morning.

from there it was another bus south along the water until we arrived at bebek, a very busy area filled with buses, ferries, businesspeople and shoppers. we popped into the little nearby mall so i could look for some shoes (what? turks have cute shoes; i wanted some) which i found for only 20 TL (about 10 dollars). then it was onto the ferry and over to asia. unlike the first time i rode one of these ferries, this was not the first time i'd been to asia, so in some ways it was a bit less exciting. but it was also a lovely ride across the water. and soon we were out and about on the asian side of town.

turkish delights

we walked quite a ways to meet büşra's friend, stopping only when essential (read: for window-shopping). eventually though we made it to a rather delightful little place, a charming cafe atop a small hill where families were dining or lingering over tea. it was quickly obvious why these two were such close friends, both have such sweet dispositions. we talked over tea, enjoying the sunlit view from our cafe table. after we were feeling sated we set out for another long walk, this time along the water. after a quick stop for an afternoon prayer we made it to our destination, the maiden's tower (whose legend naturally involves a beloved yet isolated daughter). it's quite a romantic sight, alone there in the water. but the view is enhanced by the ambiance - cushioned seats, plentiful tea and snacks, backgammon games and, in our case, golden afternoon light on the bosphorus. a pretty perfect way to spend my last evening in istanbul. as we boarded the boat to take us back to the western side of the city we were still treated to that dazzling sunlight glittering on the water.

boats on the bosphorus, a twinkling farewell

we boarded the necessary trams and buses to make our way back up north to büşra's neighborhood, stopping only when we got to the university area for one last taste of pide, at my request. we did take one last walk, to again admire the nighttime view from the hills of boğaziçi. as breathtaking on my last night as it was on my first, if a little more bittersweet. i'm sure i only scratched the surface of what istanbul has to offer. it's a city i could see myself spending lots more time exploring, although i think i'd need a few years to do it justice. so don't worry, istanbul. as i so often say, i'll be back!