shh...

driving into bosnia the change was almost instant. the poppies still dotted the roadside, and the green hills in the distance were the same, but something about the scenery was different. the houses we passed along the border were consistently in various stages of disrepair. it was unclear whether these were unfinished and abandoned or the result of damage from the war.

as we arrived in sarajevo we passed through the new section, lined with soviet-era concrete block housing that we've heard is as depressing on the inside as it is from the outside. so we were still skeptical at what sarajevo would have to offer.

well, sarajevo rose to the challenge. our hotel, next to latinski most (better known as the bridge where archduke ferdinand was shot and wwI began), was charming and our fourth floor room had windows that opened to a view of the river and the old city on one side and a nearby mosque on the hill on the other.

as we explored the old city we were quickly smitten by its abundant mosques, cobblestone streets, beautiful roses, and little shops filled with copper and pewter. it seemed very eastern and reminded us of a little istanbul. the buildings themselves had traces of moorish and ottoman influences, with alternating stone patterns, horseshoe arches, and intricately carved wooden ablution fountains. there were a number of churches as well, both orthodox and catholic, and it was easy to see why it's characterized as a place where religions coexist harmoniously.

we wandered the streets, enjoying the architecture, the locals (some veiled, some not but all dressed rather conservatively), and the cuisine. the national dish is undoubtedly cevapcici (minced meat served inside a pita with onions), which we saw everyone eating, though kebabs were abundant as well. ice cream's another favorite, so of course we had to sample some. on our walk home, as the sun went down, the balls of lights dotting the minarets came on and we heard the call to prayer. but this was no recording; just a few hundred meters away we could actually see the muezzin atop the minaret making the call.

this charming city, with its friendly locals and colorful streets, won us over and helped us overlook bosnia's flaws (including an almost total lack of street signs that made a certain museum impossible to find - oy.).

then it was on to herzegovina! the drive to our next destination, mostar, was where we got our first taste of the stunningly beautiful scenery this country has to offer. we approached a lake whose color was so beautiful we just had to stop (maybe a few times..) to take some pictures. ah, the joys of having a car! the perks also included keeping our picnic basket stocked with supplies for our daily picnic lunches. we were happy to discover that bosnia has no shortage of picnic tables along the scenic highways.

we followed the beautiful blue-green lake for miles and were sorry to leave it once we entered mostar. but we weren't disappointed for long. once we (eventually) found our hotel (again - the street sign thing was an issue) it was just a short walk to the famous bridge over the beautiful turquoise water of the river. along the cobblestone streets we found little shops (with our favorite copper earrings), cafes, and ice cream parlors.

then we arrived at the bridge itself. we'd read about the famous 'stari most' (literally 'old bridge', original) and while there's nothing terribly spectacular about it, it's just very pleasant. the round shape makes it unique and (coupled with the well-worn cobblestones) difficult to cross without slipping. but the view of the beautiful water and the mosque down the river is just breathtaking. i honestly think i could live on that bridge and would never get tired of waking up to that sight. we must have crossed the bridge dozens of time over the course of our visit but each time i had to stop to take a picture (or twelve). "it's just so pretty!" i think we uttered that phrase (along with "look at the water!" more than any trip in my recollection.

the bridge is certainly the city's crowning glory, but the rest of the town is lovely in its own right. the ottoman presence can be felt all over, which we saw in the decorations of several old private homes (patterned carpets and cushions all over, carefully carved ceilings) and mosques (colored glass and dozens of chandeliers). i was particularly excited to climb the minaret (something i've never done before) which afforded a spectacular view of the town and, of course, the bridge.

yet it wasn't all roses (though they have quite a few of those, too). throughout the town we saw several reminders of the all-too-recent war. bullet holes in the sides of buildings, cracking plaster we passed one mosque whose cemetery was filled with graves all dated to 1994 and 1995. that the war is so recent - in my relatively short lifetime, even - is almost as unbelievable as the rebuilding they've done. not only was the famous bridge destroyed (purposely blown up by crotian forces) but all but one of the cities mosques was leveled. and yet walking around the town today you would hardly know it (UNESCO has been busy here it's obvious). still, it's not something the locals are likely to forget. and neither should we.

that we were so taken with the cities we visited here is a testament to the resilience of the people of bosnia and herzegovina. in just under 20 years they have managed to turn things around and make the country into a place that's not only visit-able but spectacular! they've capitalized on the natural beauty of the country without losing the charm of its ottoman cities. while i want to encourage people to visit the country and support their economy, at the same time i'm a little hesitant to share what i suspect might be europe's best kept secret.

playing the market

after the heat and chaos of india i admit it was a bit of a shock to return to a gray, rainy europe. everything in the brussels airport seemed so sterile and commercial in comparison. a cold drizzly budapest didn't seem like a particularly attractive option. still, we made the most of our day in the city (more on that later) and by the time we moved on to croatia, we were feeling pretty good.

we arrived in zagreb without difficulty. finding the hotel was another story... whose moral is, 'always spring for the gps'. at any rate we eventually found our place, a guest house run by a colorful looking woman, whose crazy highlighted curls were offset by her bright white plastic glasses and fuchsia tights. she seemed like fun.

we found we could explore most of zagreb on foot and in the better part of a day. the old city is pleasant enough, with its cobblestone streets and abundant churches (most locked up, we discovered). the few churches were busy with pious, praying devotees, but what the city seems to really love is cafes. we had read about the 'cafe culture' and national fascination with people-watching, but nowhere is it more apparent than on tkalciceva street (i know, this language is ridiculous). people apparently stop in the middle of the day but unlike the spanish siesta, the croatians take a break to have a drink and watch other people. a little weird maybe but fun too.

the downside to this cafe culture, we discovered later, was the inverse relationship of cafes to restaurants. in most croatian cities, while there was always an abundance of caffe/bars, there was often a dearth (or total absence!) of restaurants. one day we were forced to resort to fast food (though we never had to stoop to 'american donut', a stand that, evidently, serves kebabs. go figure.)

but i'm getting off topic. apart from an odd attachment to cafes, the croatians - like all sensible europeans - have wonderful outdoor markets. the one in zagreb was one of the best. it's characterized by its typical red striped umbrellas that literally cover the square in front of the cathedral. under these you can find most any kind of produce, along with eggs, cheese, and baskets (we just had to get one).

but my favorite part of the market was the flowers! just down the stairs from the main square the row of flowers. and it is delightful. the bundles of bouquets are quite diverse, some small, some elaborate, all colorful and lovely. and the prices were quite reasonable. we found a nice little bouquet we just had to get for courtney for a nice little present. those flowers ended up making it to picnics and hotels throughout croatia and abroad (well, across the border). certainly a wise investment.

on the whole we were pleasantly surprised by zagreb. a little city with some charm.