Monday, January 04, 2010

washington in winter

it has occurred to me that i've spent a very disproportionate amount of writing on dc (considering i spent most of my life living just outside it). while there would be no way for me to write a comprehensive dc post (or even 10) i'll attempt to atone for my oversights with a dc christmas in review.

the first stop on anyone's christmas to-see list in washington is generally the white house christmas tree. i am here to tell you that this is a mistake. i've seen it many times, even attended the lighting of the tree once, or so i'm told. and let me tell you - every time it's a disappointment. perhaps the tree used to have some integrity - perhaps it once even looked like a tree - but ever since they installed these LED lights it just looks like a big cone of tv screens. except for the vaguely cone-like shape, there's nothing that would even suggest there's really a tree under there. the state trees surrounding it are somewhat more original but still on the whole pretty yawn-worthy. the highlight of the whole setup is the yule log (read: warmth).

if you're looking for a real christmas tree experience - one with a tree that looks like a tree and lights that don't look like they were used to light the halftime show - i have two recommendations. first is the one by the capitol. not only does it have realistic lights, but it has a lovely backdrop too. the tree also has the advantage of being able to go right up next to it. also from here you'll find a lovely view of the little pond and the washington monument in the distance.

my second recommendation (and one i discovered just this year) is the tree at national harbor. national harbor itself is a nice little destination. as you're crossing the bridge from virginia to maryland (with a half-second stopover in dc) it almost feels like you're on an island. the area's pretty commercial now, with upscale stores and restaurants as well as a dueling pianos bar i'm hearing good things about. the national harbor is also the new home of the awakening, a larger-than-life sculpture of a man coming up out of the ground. why they moved it from hains point i will never understand. but it's a sight nonetheless. the surprisingly large christmas tree is installed right next to the giant, providing him with something to look at as he contemplates his own imprisonment. at any rate, another nice tree with a view of the district across the water.

of course with christmas comes the gratuitous display of lights. while there are light shows across the area (and i've been to - even paid for - some lame ones) there's one i will recommend. the mormon temple is a sight in and of itself. on a hilltop just visible from the interstate, most children imagine it to be the cinderella castle or that of the wicked witch of the west (inciting the legendary 'surrender dorothy' grafitti on an overpass). looming large over the surrounding are as it does, i was surprised to find the temple itself is not actually that big but mostly benefits from its hilltop locale. (location, location, location.) non-members, of course, aren't allowed inside the actual temple; however there is a visitors' center that will gladly answer all your burning questions about latter-day saints. at this particular time (christmas eve, actually) there was a lovely choral concert that accompanied the display of christmas trees decorated by churches around the area. outside, the main attraction was of course the light show. the display boasts over 450,000 lights, a claim which i'm inclined to believe. though for the most part they're just typical strings of christmas lights, the sheer variety coupled with the picturesque backdrop make for a memorable scene. add in the unusual pre-christmas snow we got this year and it makes for a lovely photo.

my final christmastime recommendation is another i learned about only this year. the US botanic gardens, one of my favorite (and free!) spots in the city, evidently offers a yearly holiday display. it consists principally of miniature trains that make their way through fantastic villages with fairy-tale inspired houses. the best part? everything's made from plants! apart from the trains/tracks themselves everything else is made from totally organic materials. the 'green' aspect of this endeavour is probably lost on the children who are nevertheless enthralled by the overall effect. truly a treat for all ages.

so that was my christmas in washington in a nutshell. oh sure, there's more - a tour of the white house, a christmas carol at ford's theatre - but i can only do so much!