well here i am in jordan. everyone's been so welcoming and i already feel at home here, even in just a few days. still, it's strange to be so immersed in a language i'm totally unfamiliar with. i'm sure this is a phenomenon most people have experienced in some capacity, but for me it's new. in france i knew enough to get by and even if i didn't understand everything that was said, i usually got the gist of things.
but here.. well i know the alphabet and diacritic marks, which means i can sound out words. so basically i know arabic about as well as i know, say, portuguese. which is not at all. looking at it that way it's easy to get discouraged but i know things will improve and i'm anxious to start classes and really learn.
in the meantime i've been learning bits and pieces here and there. i knew pronouns and some simple nouns and verbs. so piecing things together along with vocabulary the family's teaching me ("what's breakfast? ftoor. what's tea? shy."). actually they've been good about quizzing me and making me do little tasks. yesterday i bought eggs; the vendor may have told me the price in english but, still, i came out with a kartoon bedh!
the best way i can think to describe it (i suppose it's a cliche for a reason) is with water. i wouldn't saying i'm drowning exactly, but i'm just surrounded by this language, like being dropped in the middle of an ocean. occasionally i can grab onto something - a cognate, an english word, some gesture - but for the most part i'm just floating in a sea of words. really all i'd like to be able to do is tread water. so there you have it, my goal for the summer: don't drown.
Monday, June 21, 2010
Saturday, June 19, 2010
marhaban, jordan
well i’ve been in jordan for under 24 hours and so far i’ve already eaten all different kinds of middle eastern food, driven all over the city of amman, and been totally immersed in arabic.
after landing, quickly buying my visa (luckily no questions asked) and gathering my luggage i was greeted by an enthusiastic kamel and his youngest daughter bana, who has a delightful smile and sparkling eyes. upon greeting me and welcoming me ‘home’, kamel instructed bana to, “hug the glenna” which she did willingly. later when kamel stopped for some quick groceries the first thing she asked me was “are you on facebook?”. she’s 11. we then moved on to other subjects: reading, basketball, horseback riding, and most importantly who i was supporting in the world cup (“not brazil??”).
we arrived at kamel’s lovey home where i was surprised to find not only a pool but (i’m told) a sauna. upstairs i met his lovely wife, mervat, and eldest daughter, aya, as well as his brother who lives in the apartment next door. it was about 5:00 but we all sat down for “lunch” which turned out to be a huge meal –chicken, onions, potatoes, carrots, eggplant with yogurt, tzatziki, rice with pine nuts. (i had bana quiz me on the meal beforehand; i can now tell you how to say ‘knife’ and ‘carrot’..) of course food was heaped on to my plate without hesitation. as soon as i finished some, more would appear. needless to say, by the end of the meal i was sufficiently stuffed.
after watching a bit of the US-slovenia game and allowing our food to digest, i headed out with the girls for some shopping. we went to the outdoor shopping mall, which is quite posh. here i learned that aya (almost 16) is a master shopper, or more accurately a master of taking her time shopping. a bored bana asked her mother if they would be in the adidas store for two hours to which she replied, “of course. it’s aya.” we stopped in several other stores (i admit i was excited to see some french ones – promod, etam, zara. and i’m told sales start next month.. this could be bad..) before ultimately leaving with the intended purchase – a birthday gift for a friend – plus a few extras.
at this point mervat dropped off the girls and talked me into going to ‘the club’ to meet an old friend of hers. we arrived at the club (where she’s not a member, though she told the parking attendant different) and walked past a christian baptism and a meeting of a japanese organization. out on the terrace we met up with the other ladies, who were just beginning their hookahs and chatting. we ordered lemonade with fresh mint leaves (delicious!) and each of the women ordered several dishes. all told, there were 10 plates of food on the table, not including various breads. hummus, pita, tabouleh, mushrooms, zucchini.. just to name a few. the visiting friend talked about her life in copenhagen and showed us pictures of her adorable (and tri-lingual) 4- and 5-year old daughters. after a while we left, mervat using my tiredness as an excuse (though truthfully i was getting sleepy).
at this point i unpacked my things, a nice luxury after five weeks of spending no more than three nights in the same place. i think i’ve displaced bana from her room, given its rather pink-heavy decorations (a stuffed dog was left on the bed to greet me), which i feel somewhat guilty about. but the family is very welcoming and i already feel quite comfortable here.
hopefully i can make the most of the next few weeks and really learn a lot of arabic and even get in some work at the museum. insha’allah.
Saturday, June 05, 2010
shh...
driving into bosnia the change was almost instant. the poppies still dotted the roadside, and the green hills in the distance were the same, but something about the scenery was different. the houses we passed along the border were consistently in various stages of disrepair. it was unclear whether these were unfinished and abandoned or the result of damage from the war.
as we arrived in sarajevo we passed through the new section, lined with soviet-era concrete block housing that we've heard is as depressing on the inside as it is from the outside. so we were still skeptical at what sarajevo would have to offer.
well, sarajevo rose to the challenge. our hotel, next to latinski most (better known as the bridge where archduke ferdinand was shot and wwI began), was charming and our fourth floor room had windows that opened to a view of the river and the old city on one side and a nearby mosque on the hill on the other.
as we explored the old city we were quickly smitten by its abundant mosques, cobblestone streets, beautiful roses, and little shops filled with copper and pewter. it seemed very eastern and reminded us of a little istanbul. the buildings themselves had traces of moorish and ottoman influences, with alternating stone patterns, horseshoe arches, and intricately carved wooden ablution fountains. there were a number of churches as well, both orthodox and catholic, and
it was easy to see why it's characterized as a place where religions coexist harmoniously.
we wandered the streets, enjoying the architecture, the locals (some veiled, some not but all dressed rather conservatively), and the cuisine. the national dish is undoubtedly cevapcici (minced meat served inside a pita with onions), which we saw everyone eating, though kebabs were abundant as well. ice cream's another favorite,
so of course we had to sample some. on our walk home, as the sun went down, the balls of lights dotting the minarets came on and we heard the call to prayer. but this was no recording; just a few hundred meters away we could actually see the muezzin atop the minaret making the call.
this charming city, with its friendly locals and colorful streets, won us over and helped us overlook bosnia's flaws (including an almost total lack of street signs that made a certain museum impossible to find - oy.).
then it was on to herzegovina! the drive to our next destination, mostar, was where we got our first taste of the stunningly beautiful scenery this country has to offer. we approached a lake whose color was so beautiful we just had to stop (maybe a few times..) to take some pictures. ah, the joys of having a car! the perks also included keeping our picnic basket stocked with supplies for our daily picnic lunches. we were happy to discover that bosnia has no shortage of picnic tables along the scenic highways.
we followed the beautiful blue-green lake for miles and were sorry to leave it once we entered mostar. but we weren't disappointed for long. once we (eventually) found our hotel (again - the street sign thing was an issue) it was just a short walk to the famous bridge over the beautiful turquoise water of the river. along the cobblestone streets we found little shops (with our favorite copper earrings), cafes, and ice cream parlors.
then we arrived at the bridge itself. we'd read about the famous 'stari most' (literally 'old bridge', original) and while there's nothing terribly spectacular about it, it's just very pleasant. the round shape makes it unique and (coupled with the well-worn cobblestones) difficult to cross without slipping. but the view of the beautiful water and the mosque down the river is just breathtaking. i honestly think i could live on that bridge and would never get tired of waking up to that sight. we must have crossed the bridge dozens of time over the course of our visit but each time i had to stop to take a picture (or twelve). "it's just so pretty!" i think we uttered that phrase (along with "look at the water!" more than any trip in my recollection.
the bridge is certainly the city's crowning glory, but the rest of the town is lovely in its own right. the ottoman presence can be felt all over, which we saw in the decorations of several old private homes (patterned carpets and cushions all over, carefully carved ceilings) and mosques (colored glass and dozens of chandeliers). i was particularly excited to climb the minaret (something i've never done before) which afforded a spectacular view of the town and, of course, the bridge.
yet it wasn't all roses (though they have quite a few of those, too). throughout the town we saw several reminders of the all-too-recent war. bullet holes in the sides of buildings, cracking plaster we passed one mosque whose cemetery
was filled with graves all dated to 1994 and 1995. that the war is so recent - in my relatively short lifetime, even - is almost as unbelievable as the rebuilding they've done. not only was the famous bridge destroyed (purposely blown up by crotian forces) but all but one of the cities mosques was leveled. and yet walking around the town today you would hardly know it (UNESCO has been busy here it's obvious). still, it's not something the locals are likely to forget. and neither should we.
that we were so taken with the cities we visited here is a testament to the resilience of the people of bosnia and herzegovina. in just under 20 years they have managed to turn things around and make the country into a place that's not only visit-able but spectacular! they've capitalized on the natural beauty of the country without losing the charm of its ottoman cities. while i want to encourage people to visit the country and support their economy, at the same time i'm a little hesitant to share what i suspect might be europe's best kept secret.
as we arrived in sarajevo we passed through the new section, lined with soviet-era concrete block housing that we've heard is as depressing on the inside as it is from the outside. so we were still skeptical at what sarajevo would have to offer.
well, sarajevo rose to the challenge. our hotel, next to latinski most (better known as the bridge where archduke ferdinand was shot and wwI began), was charming and our fourth floor room had windows that opened to a view of the river and the old city on one side and a nearby mosque on the hill on the other.
as we explored the old city we were quickly smitten by its abundant mosques, cobblestone streets, beautiful roses, and little shops filled with copper and pewter. it seemed very eastern and reminded us of a little istanbul. the buildings themselves had traces of moorish and ottoman influences, with alternating stone patterns, horseshoe arches, and intricately carved wooden ablution fountains. there were a number of churches as well, both orthodox and catholic, and
it was easy to see why it's characterized as a place where religions coexist harmoniously.we wandered the streets, enjoying the architecture, the locals (some veiled, some not but all dressed rather conservatively), and the cuisine. the national dish is undoubtedly cevapcici (minced meat served inside a pita with onions), which we saw everyone eating, though kebabs were abundant as well. ice cream's another favorite,
so of course we had to sample some. on our walk home, as the sun went down, the balls of lights dotting the minarets came on and we heard the call to prayer. but this was no recording; just a few hundred meters away we could actually see the muezzin atop the minaret making the call.this charming city, with its friendly locals and colorful streets, won us over and helped us overlook bosnia's flaws (including an almost total lack of street signs that made a certain museum impossible to find - oy.).
then it was on to herzegovina! the drive to our next destination, mostar, was where we got our first taste of the stunningly beautiful scenery this country has to offer. we approached a lake whose color was so beautiful we just had to stop (maybe a few times..) to take some pictures. ah, the joys of having a car! the perks also included keeping our picnic basket stocked with supplies for our daily picnic lunches. we were happy to discover that bosnia has no shortage of picnic tables along the scenic highways.we followed the beautiful blue-green lake for miles and were sorry to leave it once we entered mostar. but we weren't disappointed for long. once we (eventually) found our hotel (again - the street sign thing was an issue) it was just a short walk to the famous bridge over the beautiful turquoise water of the river. along the cobblestone streets we found little shops (with our favorite copper earrings), cafes, and ice cream parlors.
then we arrived at the bridge itself. we'd read about the famous 'stari most' (literally 'old bridge', original) and while there's nothing terribly spectacular about it, it's just very pleasant. the round shape makes it unique and (coupled with the well-worn cobblestones) difficult to cross without slipping. but the view of the beautiful water and the mosque down the river is just breathtaking. i honestly think i could live on that bridge and would never get tired of waking up to that sight. we must have crossed the bridge dozens of time over the course of our visit but each time i had to stop to take a picture (or twelve). "it's just so pretty!" i think we uttered that phrase (along with "look at the water!" more than any trip in my recollection.
the bridge is certainly the city's crowning glory, but the rest of the town is lovely in its own right. the ottoman presence can be felt all over, which we saw in the decorations of several old private homes (patterned carpets and cushions all over, carefully carved ceilings) and mosques (colored glass and dozens of chandeliers). i was particularly excited to climb the minaret (something i've never done before) which afforded a spectacular view of the town and, of course, the bridge.yet it wasn't all roses (though they have quite a few of those, too). throughout the town we saw several reminders of the all-too-recent war. bullet holes in the sides of buildings, cracking plaster we passed one mosque whose cemetery
was filled with graves all dated to 1994 and 1995. that the war is so recent - in my relatively short lifetime, even - is almost as unbelievable as the rebuilding they've done. not only was the famous bridge destroyed (purposely blown up by crotian forces) but all but one of the cities mosques was leveled. and yet walking around the town today you would hardly know it (UNESCO has been busy here it's obvious). still, it's not something the locals are likely to forget. and neither should we.that we were so taken with the cities we visited here is a testament to the resilience of the people of bosnia and herzegovina. in just under 20 years they have managed to turn things around and make the country into a place that's not only visit-able but spectacular! they've capitalized on the natural beauty of the country without losing the charm of its ottoman cities. while i want to encourage people to visit the country and support their economy, at the same time i'm a little hesitant to share what i suspect might be europe's best kept secret.
Thursday, June 03, 2010
playing the market
after the heat and chaos of india i admit it was a bit of a shock to return to a gray, rainy europe. everything in the brussels airport seemed so sterile and commercial in comparison. a cold drizzly budapest didn't seem like a particularly attractive option. still, we made the most of our day in the city (more on that later) and by the time we moved on to croatia, we were feeling pretty good.
we arrived in zagreb without difficulty. finding the hotel was another story... whose moral is, 'always spring for the gps'. at any rate we eventually found our place, a guest house run by a colorful looking woman, whose crazy highlighted curls were offset by her bright white plastic glasses and fuchsia tights. she seemed like fun.
we found we could explore most of zagreb on foot and in the better part of a day. the old city is pleasant enough, with its cobblestone streets and abundant churches (most locked up, we discovered). the few churches were busy with pious, praying devotees, but what the city seems to really love is cafes. we had read about the 'cafe culture' and national fascination with people-watching, but nowhere is it more apparent than on tkalciceva street (i know, this language is ridiculous). people apparently stop in the middle of the day but unlike the spanish siesta, the croatians take a break to have a drink and watch other people. a little weird maybe but fun too.
the downside to this cafe culture, we discovered later, was the inverse relationship of cafes to restaurants. in most croatian cities, while there was always an abundance of caffe/bars, there was often a dearth (or total absence!) of restaurants. one day we were forced to resort to fast food (though we never had to stoop to 'american donut', a stand that, evidently, serves kebabs. go figure.)
but i'm getting off topic. apart from an odd attachment to cafes, the croatians - like all sensible europeans - have wonderful outdoor markets. the one in zagreb was one of the best. it's characterized by its typical red striped umbrellas that literally cover the square in front of the cathedral. under these you can find most any kind of produce, along with eggs, cheese, and baskets (we just had to get one).
but my favorite part of the market was the flowers! just down the stairs from the main square the row of flowers. and it is delightful.
the bundles of bouquets are quite diverse, some small, some elaborate, all colorful and lovely. and the prices were quite reasonable. we found a nice little bouquet we just had to get for courtney for a nice little present. those flowers ended up making it to picnics and hotels throughout croatia and abroad (well, across the border). certainly a wise investment.
on the whole we were pleasantly surprised by zagreb. a little city with some charm.
we arrived in zagreb without difficulty. finding the hotel was another story... whose moral is, 'always spring for the gps'. at any rate we eventually found our place, a guest house run by a colorful looking woman, whose crazy highlighted curls were offset by her bright white plastic glasses and fuchsia tights. she seemed like fun.
we found we could explore most of zagreb on foot and in the better part of a day. the old city is pleasant enough, with its cobblestone streets and abundant churches (most locked up, we discovered). the few churches were busy with pious, praying devotees, but what the city seems to really love is cafes. we had read about the 'cafe culture' and national fascination with people-watching, but nowhere is it more apparent than on tkalciceva street (i know, this language is ridiculous). people apparently stop in the middle of the day but unlike the spanish siesta, the croatians take a break to have a drink and watch other people. a little weird maybe but fun too.the downside to this cafe culture, we discovered later, was the inverse relationship of cafes to restaurants. in most croatian cities, while there was always an abundance of caffe/bars, there was often a dearth (or total absence!) of restaurants. one day we were forced to resort to fast food (though we never had to stoop to 'american donut', a stand that, evidently, serves kebabs. go figure.)
but i'm getting off topic. apart from an odd attachment to cafes, the croatians - like all sensible europeans - have wonderful outdoor markets. the one in zagreb was one of the best. it's characterized by its typical red striped umbrellas that literally cover the square in front of the cathedral. under these you can find most any kind of produce, along with eggs, cheese, and baskets (we just had to get one).but my favorite part of the market was the flowers! just down the stairs from the main square the row of flowers. and it is delightful.
the bundles of bouquets are quite diverse, some small, some elaborate, all colorful and lovely. and the prices were quite reasonable. we found a nice little bouquet we just had to get for courtney for a nice little present. those flowers ended up making it to picnics and hotels throughout croatia and abroad (well, across the border). certainly a wise investment.on the whole we were pleasantly surprised by zagreb. a little city with some charm.
Tuesday, June 01, 2010
agra-culture
our last real stop in india (minus a half-day in delhi) was probably the most-visited city in india. agra, of crossword puzzle fame, is home to the taj mahal which of course (somehow) has now become the ultimate symbol of india and a universally-recognized landmark. i'm not sure why actually, which is an intriguing concept in itself.
we paid our 750 rupees (20 for indians, sigh) and were ushered through the first entrance portal. as we rounded the corner surrounded by dozens of other (mostly indian) tourists, we caught out first glimpse. it's one of those sights that you've seen so many times it doesn't feel new. what's surreal is that you're seeing this strangely familiar place for the first time.
what stands out most about the building for me was the size. maybe this is what everyone says, but it really is enormous! people are just dwarfed by this massive mausoleum. other than that, i was impressed by the proportions and the beautiful simplicity - the white marble and refined designs. maybe this is blasphemous, or maybe i just have a taste for the overdone (read: extensive tiles), but i still say the dome of the rock is my favorite islamic structure.
other than enjoying the architecture itself, i enjoyed watching the indian tourists almost as much as they seem to enjoy watching me. yet again we seemed to be the objects of much attention from our fellow tourists, they surreptitiously taking pictures of me (which i felt entitled me to do the same). i spent quite a while relaxing just outside the door delighting in the colorful saris against the clean white marble.
but of course there's more to agra than the taj mahal (though you certainly wouldn't know it from the postcards or tacky souvenirs). for us agra was especially meaningful because my friend manish was nice enough to drive down and join us from delhi. in addition to taking care of my mother when she finally succumbed to the heat (it was 112 that day) and helping us deal with hawkers, he showed us parts of the city we never would have seen otherwise.
he advised us against going to the red fort (as by then we had seen similar structures) and instead drove us 40 minutes away to the city of fatehpur sikri. what a treat! the complex had the typical red sandstone of indian mughal structures, and akbar himself prayed in the friday mosque. my favorite part was the smaller prayer hall, the dargah. the carved window screens (jalis) were so beautiful and delicate-looking. and to this day people tie red and yellow strings to the walls in hopes of good fortune and fertility.
our last stop the next day was the moon gardens for a rare glimpse of the taj mahal from behind. it took a surprisingly long time to get there, given their relative proximity. we ended up just across the (rather dry) river with an impressive view of the still-massive structure. parts of it were obscured by brick walls or barbed wire, which i think only made the view that much more intriguing. it was a nice parting shot to remember agra by.
our next stop was delhi and, sadly, out of india. but hopefully not for long!
we paid our 750 rupees (20 for indians, sigh) and were ushered through the first entrance portal. as we rounded the corner surrounded by dozens of other (mostly indian) tourists, we caught out first glimpse. it's one of those sights that you've seen so many times it doesn't feel new. what's surreal is that you're seeing this strangely familiar place for the first time.what stands out most about the building for me was the size. maybe this is what everyone says, but it really is enormous! people are just dwarfed by this massive mausoleum. other than that, i was impressed by the proportions and the beautiful simplicity - the white marble and refined designs. maybe this is blasphemous, or maybe i just have a taste for the overdone (read: extensive tiles), but i still say the dome of the rock is my favorite islamic structure.
other than enjoying the architecture itself, i enjoyed watching the indian tourists almost as much as they seem to enjoy watching me. yet again we seemed to be the objects of much attention from our fellow tourists, they surreptitiously taking pictures of me (which i felt entitled me to do the same). i spent quite a while relaxing just outside the door delighting in the colorful saris against the clean white marble.but of course there's more to agra than the taj mahal (though you certainly wouldn't know it from the postcards or tacky souvenirs). for us agra was especially meaningful because my friend manish was nice enough to drive down and join us from delhi. in addition to taking care of my mother when she finally succumbed to the heat (it was 112 that day) and helping us deal with hawkers, he showed us parts of the city we never would have seen otherwise.
he advised us against going to the red fort (as by then we had seen similar structures) and instead drove us 40 minutes away to the city of fatehpur sikri. what a treat! the complex had the typical red sandstone of indian mughal structures, and akbar himself prayed in the friday mosque. my favorite part was the smaller prayer hall, the dargah. the carved window screens (jalis) were so beautiful and delicate-looking. and to this day people tie red and yellow strings to the walls in hopes of good fortune and fertility.
our last stop the next day was the moon gardens for a rare glimpse of the taj mahal from behind. it took a surprisingly long time to get there, given their relative proximity. we ended up just across the (rather dry) river with an impressive view of the still-massive structure. parts of it were obscured by brick walls or barbed wire, which i think only made the view that much more intriguing. it was a nice parting shot to remember agra by.our next stop was delhi and, sadly, out of india. but hopefully not for long!
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