so you're going to a boat race..

despite my rather limited experience (two snake boat races does not a veteran make, i suppose) i thought i would pass on my small bit of wisdom for those of you who may find yourself attending a boat race in kerala in the future.

come early

if you don't get a seat this is where you may end up. 

as with most events in india, these boat races tend to attract a lot of people (a commodity of which india has no short supply). at the two races i attended, there were pavilions filled with plastic chairs that required advanced tickets (which i didn't have - but at one i knew someone who was able to get one and at the other i was let in because.. well, i'm white. sad but true). do note, though, they invariably pass out more tickets than there are chairs so it pays to get there early and claim your spot so you don't end up sitting on the steps or outside on the muddy grass nearby. coming early - as in 3 or 4 hours, ideally, leads me right in to my second tip...

be prepared to wait

so you've claimed your plastic chair and have chosen your spot strategically (view of finish line is key). great. now get ready to wait. i learned this lesson the hard way the first time and so spent my time chatting with the kids around me. not altogether a bad alternative. but bringing a book the second time around was crucial. 


as with any important onam celebration, these events are always surrounded by a big fanfare. which means local politicians (lots of 'em). which means about 14 men who really like to hear themselves talk. and unless you understand malayalam, this is going to be quite dull. (though i imagine even if you understand malayalam it's not much more enthralling.)

don't miss the pre-show

colorful chhatris (umbrellas) and a lot of dead weight

not that you could, really. the boats make a big deal of 'processing' (i guess boats can 'process') back and forth across the river - showing off their enthusiasm (chanting a rhythm that will undoubtedly be blasted/shouted/repeated endlessly throughout the day), beating drums, and twirling their fancy umbrellas. this is a great time to see the boats up close and note all the decorations that adorn them. later on the boats are farther away, in their respective lanes, and have jettisoned the decorative elements - and probably a few of the less crucial people - to be more competitive.

staying sane

boats processing in all their finery

you've already started on this by bringing a book, or other form of entertainment. but just be aware that in addition to the hours of waiting there will be plenty of other annoyances that are likely to drive you up a wall. the chanting i mentioned is probably chief among these. the chant is meant to keep the boatmen in stroke, and it's certainly a successful way to do so. however it also serves as a sort of rallying cry for all of the rowers as well as onlookers. i, for example, was awoken that morning (quite early) by this chant being blasted from speakers about a block away. and it basically went on uninterrupted until well into the evening.

there are also likely to be other little annoyances that are inevitable in large groups of people. old men nearby who insist on spreading out to occupy as much space as possible... small children who can't whistle and try shrieking at an obscenely high decibel instead... a whiny toddler who continues to be shuffled back and forth between rows crying alternately for his father/mother.. you know, for example.

get excited

sweet victory

the boat races themselves happen pretty fast. though there can be a lot of wait time, it seems like the bigger races have gotten pretty good about spacing the races themselves quickly. there may be as many as three going on at a time, stretched out along the course. (kind of like kids going down a water slide) it's easy to tell when the local boats are coming through (and in the run for first) because the crowds will cheer. so get up and try to get a view of the finish line. (this is the time to pull out your zoom lens if you happened to remember to bring one.. sigh)


don't wait until the bitter end

the boat races themselves wrap up in a pretty timely manner, with semifinals and finals that have a pretty quick turnaround time. but the celebrations seem to go on and on. the winning boats make their final lap, eliciting cheers from the audience, and then are asked to come up on stage where some higher ups give out trophies and the boatmen begin their celebrations anew. i saw a few of the boatment return, cheered along with the crowds, and then got out of there. it's just more of the same and if you've seen it once you've pretty much seen it all.

enjoy!

so, there you have it. a guide to enjoying your next boat race in kerala.