lala land

up early again (i suppose that happens when you go turn in at 10pm), we managed to watch a full episode of law & order and still hit the road at a decent hour. on the way out of joshua tree we saw windmills - only a few at first and then dozens and maybe even hundreds. before long we were on the highway and it was clear we were approaching big cities again.

oval office replica

we bypassed LA for the time being and headed straight up to simi valley - quite a trek but my mother wanted to see the reagan library, a first presidential library for both of us. there were a TON of people there - which we first sensed by the parking. all the lots were full, and so visitors had to start parking along the steep hill that leads to the library and take a shuttle to the top. after a brief wait in line we made our way through the self-guided exhibitions. it was pretty interesting to read about reagan's early life and career. there were even a few interactive elements. towards the end of the tour we were able to walk through an older air force one. surprisingly cramped actually! i'm sure the current one is a bit more luxurious. still, it was cool to see how the president and press would have traveled (right down to the jellybeans they had interspersed throughout the cabin).

drought-resistant plants, spanish colonial house

from there we were still quite far from LA proper and it was already past one so we figured we'd stop for a quick bite. the are around there is clearly suburban and pretty nondescript. we could have been in northern virginia. we found an interesting little hawaiian place that had stir fry, which was good enough for us. after a quick meal we were back on the road and anxious to get into the city. we didn't make it for well over an hour - not because there was traffic but because we were just that far out of the city. eventually we made it into downtown and then we started to hit a few lights/traffic. it was close to rush hour so people were already trying to get out of the city. we eventually made it to our destination, lacma, one of the few museums that's open on mondays. parking around the museum proved challenging, since it was located next to another very popular brand new museum (the broad, pronounced broh-d, i learned) and in the midst of lots of big office buildings. we circled around and around and eventually found a parking garage for a hospital on the other side of a residential area. we wandered through the fairly quiet streets, noting the southern california architecture and plants along the way.

detail of sam francis

eventually we made it to the museum but the line was rather daunting. i later discovered this was because LA county residents get in free after 3pm every weekday. i tried my luck and went up to the members window and asked about a discount for museum employees. sure enough, it was free for me and she even let me buy my mom's ticket at the window without waiting in line. sometimes it just pays to ask. we were a bit rushed since the museum closed at 5 but i'm pretty certain we hit the highlights (and by that i mean things i most wanted to see). this was made a bit more difficult with the layout of the museum (or campus, rather) since it's really a conglomeration of buildings. we started in one that had ancient art, contemporary korean art, and a children's studio. see? not exactly intuitive. eventually we made our way to one of the bigger buildings (one senses that it was originally the only building that housed the museum's collection, and indeed it still looks very dated - the dark paneling and overall interior betraying its 1965 opening) which housed a substantial part of the collection. we made our way through the islamic art section (natch) which had a great mix of unusual pieces (like ceramic tiles from pakistan and bizarre portrayals of stereotyped westerners in miniature paintings) along with works from contemporary artists. the modern and contemporary galleries had a lot of great stuff, although i confess we had to move through them a little more quickly. i particularly liked this sam francis print (detailed at left) and a few other odd pieces. after a quick stop in the shop we made our way back to the car.

if only the car in front were a mustang

from here we figured we should get to the hotel and figure out things from there. despite being about 5.00 we made it to the hotel without hitting tons of traffic. we stayed at a little boutique hotel that was clearly once an unremarkable roadside hotel (as evidenced by the exterior and teeny rooms) but had been transformed with high-end, mostly white decor and an almost-too-fancy breakfast. we wished we could have made use of the central patio area, but it really just a bit too chilly to enjoy it. after a bit of a rest we set out again (this time with uber - after yelp, probably the app my mom is most impressed by) to a nearby movie theater. after museums, my top priority in LA was to check out great movies that hadn't come to our smaller cities yet. we made it to the theater but realized there wasn't as much in the way of restaurants as we had thought. it was odd, the closest things to the theater were a nursing home and a school. we ended up grabbing a quick bite at a little italian cafe before making it to the theater to see mustang. what a GREAT movie! it's about five turkish sisters growing up in a conservative town and how their lives are increasingly restricted. it's truly one of the best movies i've seen in the past year. i have high hopes that it will come to the nick in columbia.

getty structures from the gardens

the next day we were up fairly early in hopes of being among the first to get to the getty. what an ordeal that is; it's almost like getting through the airport. we drove to the parking garage and even well before opening time, there were quite a few cars there ahead of us. (parking, by the way, is $15, so admission isn't quite as free as it seems.) we made our way to the line for the shuttle, which snaked around quite a bit and included a bag check. the shuttle ride, much like an airport might, had introductions (in this case from the director) and instructions in several languages. we were eventually dropped off at the museum complex at the top of the hill. like the lacma, there were several buildings we moved between, which would have been fine had it not been unseasonably cold! we made our way in and out of the various galleries, especially enjoying the west pavilion which had some of the more modern pieces. there were some lovely degas drawings (did you know he did sketches of folk dancers as well as ballerinas?), turners, cezannes, and some spanish painters whose work was new to me. the museum has quite a bit of european decorative art, which was really how the collection began. one of the pavilions also had a sketching room which was quite busy while we were there and full of art from past visitors. we really enjoyed the gardens as well. they, like many in california it seems, have switched to drought-resistant plants so it's a mix of tropical plants like bougainvillea and then cacti and succulents. even with these constraints they had quite a variety of plants. the grounds were nice but i wish we'd had time to visit the getty villa whose setting looks really lovely. oh well, it's on the list for next time. still, of all the museums we visited on this trip, i myself was surprised to note that the san diego art museum was my favorite.

koshi box

by now it was getting toward lunch time but we wanted to make our way towards our next destination, which of course (like everything on our list) was way across town. thanks to yelp i was able to find a nice little korean fusion place (koshi) just off the highway on our way. before our trip i'd had high hopes for different types of cuisine or restaurants i had wanted to try in LA. (not to mention book stores and thrift stores..) but when we got there it became clear that going to a particular destination just for a restaurant wasn't going to work with our ambitious, and spread out, schedule. even without traffic (because somehow we'd managed to avoid the ubiquitous LA traffic) we just couldn't afford the time to stop anywhere but along the way. this, combined with the fact that in the desert we had to rely on whatever was around, all contributed to us not having had proper mexican food up until the second to last day of the trip. but i digress. the korean food, at left, was delicious. their combo lunch included sushi, bulgogi, rice, and  veggies. i topped it off with a delicious thai iced tea.

overlooking LA, from afar

we pressed on to the griffin observatory. or as close as we could get. what an ordeal. we figured parking at the top would be packed so we parked on the street and figured we'd take the nearby shuttle. we got into a line of about 50 or 60 people but figured it wouldn't take too long. as it turned out there were only two shuttles and it took each one a loooong time to get up and down the big hill to the observatory. arguably longer than it should have. nearly an hour later we were finally at the top of the hill where we could, as promised, see the hollywood sign. of course the observatory is also the site of that famous scene in 'rebel without a cause'. as soon as we made it to the top we immediately got in the line for the shuttle and took turns exploring. the observatory itself did seem neat and they had a planetarium show that seemed popular with families. the view was also fairly impressive, making it clear just how far we really were from downtown LA. but was it worth the several hours it took to get there and explore it? well i'm not sure.

art deco stylings at nuart

we had initially hoped to see 'theeb', another movie on the top of our list that sounded good, about a young boy in the jordanain desert. since the observatory turned out to be such an ordeal we figured we wouldn't make that one. we settled for our third choice, son of saul (like the other two movies, also nominated for a best foreign film oscar). we decided we'd have enough time to go to the hotel and uber out so we wouldn't have to deal with parking. we managed to make it to the theater with plenty of time to spare so we found a place for dinner. it was an odd area, not many people and restaurants were few and far between. luckily we happened upon an iranian restaurant where we had delicious food. we were just about the only people in there but i suppose that's not abnormal for a tuesday. the theater was just a little further down the street and it had a nice vintage movie house look. the movie was.. bleak i think is the only way to describe it. it was hard to watch, but then for a movie about working in a concentration camp i suppose that's the point. it was a very good film but i have to say i preferred mustang.

song and dance men

our last morning we did a quick walk through the hollywood walk of fame, which my mom had really wanted to do. it was cheesy and touristy, as you would expect, with souvenir stores and people hawking bus rides to celebrity homes or studio tours. the walk of fame (the modern one anyway) goes on and on, with a star every few feet. there are so many (and some of such questionable caliber) that you start to wonder what their criteria is. i was most interested to see the original walk of fame with the cement hand and footprints. it's now all roped off since grauman's chinese theater is using it as a plate for people to line up for tickets (i think?). i was pretty excited to see that gene kelly and dick van dyke, two of my all-time faves, are right next to one another! the very nice woman working at the theater offered to take a photo for me. my mother's main criticism of the experience was that there weren't enough people she wanted to see (namely brits).

taco wednesday

with that done we were back on the road on our way out of town. our destination for our last full day was la jolla, which we'd only heard great things about. we made it there and for the first time hit some traffic as we got near the city limits. on our way into the city we passed some houses near the coast that we knew must have cost a small fortune. it was well into lunchtime so as soon as we found a parking spot (no small feat) we headed to lunch. we knew it was ridiculous that we'd yet to have any real mexican food in southern california so that was a must. nearby we found a little place called, quite simply, the taco stand. it was fairly small but obviously well loved, if the crowds on a wednesday were any indication. and well-deserved, i'd say, because our tacos were absolutely delicious. we sampled four different kinds and washed it all down with a squirt soda. honestly, i'm still thinking about those tacos a little bit.

coastal vegetation

mainly what we wanted to do in la jolla is enjoy the views of the coast so we made our way towards the water. the water was a beautiful blue and the rocky coast was dotted with flowers and that odd thick grass-like plant you only seem to see in california. we wound our way around the coastline admiring the views until we came to the cove, where we happened upon some sea lions basking in the sun (my kind of animal). they didn't seem to mind people, even letting them walk in between them - although they didn't hesitate to bark if anyone got too close.

yes?

most of them were just napping, occasionally lazily raising their head to see what was going on. only one was a bit more active, waddling and barking all over the little rocky outcrop and posing for people's photos. with our remaining time in town we explored a bit more, stopping for a library book sale and at a thrift store on the other side of town.

we were amazed at how quickly we made it from la jolla back to san diego. i guess we just didn't realize it was quite that close. we dropped off our rental car at the airport and we're preparing to take an uber when the company offered us a free ride to our hotel in the car we'd been using. so convenient - i guess it pays to have the airport so close to the city. about three minutes later and we were at our hotel. we stayed a bit closer to the water (and airport) this time but still quite close to little italy, where we'd stayed before. we were able to meet my friend kelly for one last dinner - we had wonderful pasta at bencotto - and capped off the evening with gelato at our favorite italian place, pappalecco. we retired early in anticipation of our very early flight - luckily we didn't have far to go in the morning. our flight took off early on the morning of new years eve. overall not a bad way to cap off 2015.

caves of wonders

after giving my mom a whirlwind two-day tour of bombay we headed out for aurangabad. we ended up flying which seems a little ludicrous given that it's in the same state. buses and trains run regularly but we were short on time so for us this was the way to go. why go to aurangabad? well it has the advantage of being a small city between the cities of ajanta and ellora, both of which have ancient caves with sculptures and paintings.

the first day we checked into our fabulous hotel (i'd forgotten what it's like to have a room with a tv, much less a refrigerator or a hotel pool - traveling with your mother has definite advantages), got ready and set out to find an auto to take us to ellora. mom was ready to agree to the price our cab driver had quoted (to be fair, less than the hotel's prices, yes, but those were ludicrous) but i wasn't having it. in
the end we got an auto and payed a modest but ample sum for the 2 hour round-trip drive.

to contextualize this a bit, i should add that ajanta and ellora were two of the earliest discoveries of ancient indian sculpture, made by early british 'orientalists' (to oversimplify: the good kind, not the edward said kind). it was also some of the earliest indian art i was exposed to (along with the stupas at sanchi), in asian and indian art classes so they have something a sentimental/nerdy, art historical appeal for me as well.

notice the faux-wooden ceiling beams

when we reached ellora we of course had to fend off the inevitable book peddlers and would-be guides before buying our tickets (10 rs, for me, thank you very much). once inside the path led to the middle of the set of caves; we chose to visit the latter half first. there are over 30 caves (mostly hindu and buddhist, but a few jain), some only separated by a few meters, others quite a bit farther. the guidebooks like to choose their favorites to highlight so we kept that in mind but also stopped wherever we felt like it. the first few caves we stopped in had minimal, but quite excellent, carvings of larger-than-life bodhisatvas and guardian figures. i had to remind myself there was much more to see. we continued on, exploring caves with, usually, a central buddha figure in the back niche and other figures flanking it. there were some lovely carvings of scenes like 'shiva and parvati playing dice' and 'ravana shaking the mountain' (ravana proved hard to find though, as he didn't appear to have 10 heads). at one point we came to an impasse, the narrow path, which followed some steps down and then edged along the curve of a small cliff, was blocked, presumably because the steps were a little worn. this was probably the dumbest thing anyone could have done - since the scaffolding they placed over it didn't preclude anyone from climbing around the side of it along the border of the stairs. which is exactly what people did. surely edging along the side of a staircase (and cliff, as it were) clinging to some bamboo scaffolding is much more unsafe than some worn-down steps. i was convinced we could get across - as we watched many people do the same, but mom was unsure (rightly so) so we had to turn back. one of the authorities - who would sporadically yell at people not to climb around (to no avail) - told us there was a path above. somewhere. perhaps there was, but if so we never found it.

we came back to the middle, where had begun, and continued on, skipping the central cave, which we knew was by far the largest and most elaborate. we walked on and saw some fantastic structures - caves with arches and beams that mirrored those in wooden architecture at the time (it's amazing how many cultures have done that), and of course humbling, reverent buddha figures at the far end. it was quite a sight, and the crowds were such that if you waited a few minutes you'd probably have any of the particular caves to yourself. we made our way onward, exploring some caves and not others, stopping for a sit in the shade and a snack of oranges.

not sure this does cave 16 justice.. it was massive

finally we arrived at cave 16, the main attraction. this cave blows all the others out of the water, in terms of both scale and sheer amount of sculpture. it can't even be called a cave, really, except that it was underground until it was discovered in the 19th century. it's actually a series of multi-storied temple structures surrounded by a covered arcade. the structures themselves have fabulous heavy relief sculptures, from goddesses (these are largely hindu) hybrid animals to giant, almost freestanding elephants (who sadly had a lot of broken trunks). there were even some traces of paint on some of the sculptures. what an amazing sight, and a good note to end on.

we had a long leisurely auto ride back punctuated by a stop for chai and pagodas. back at the hotel we relaxed by the pool, enjoyed a lovely hotel dinner and ordered a movie to our room. this is more like it!

the next day was ajanta, a longer (about 3 times longer) ride that my mom didn't relish taking in an auto. instead we hopped an auto to the bus station where, indeed, we were approached by someone offering us a cab. there was apparently a dearth of cabs that day due to a local election but we still got a pretty decent price and were able to travel alone. one long nap later and we arrived at ajanta to the same fanfare of perspective guides and all sorts of vendors. cold drink? ice cream? book? postcard? we bypassed them all - including one very insistent man who was convinced my mom needed to be carried on a chair over the site's various steps. no thanks, bud.

entering ajanta

a bit like ellora, the caves at ajanta are arranged around a small sort of valley. they follow a horseshoe shape, so you walk around the curve of the hill. evidently in the rainy season there are waterfalls to be seen but of course, being february we saw none of those. no matter, the main attraction was the caves themselves.

we walked into the first cave and i was astounded to see one of the most famous paintings there, right off the bat. if you've perused any books on indian art you may have seen this image - of a sinuous figure whose torso seems to follow the curves of the lotus vine he holds. the cave walls and ceiling are all covered with detailed paintings such as this, some in better repair than others. there were quite a few people there but once again, with some patience, and a tripod, i was able to get a few worthwhile shots.

and now a moment on the state of the sites. i, and perhaps you too, have been reading lately about UNESCO world heritage sites and the effects of that label on their security and protection. in theory that status is meant to protect the sites from destruction and provide funds for their preservation. however funding seems uneven at best and often sites are left with few resources and a lot of extra attention (thanks to this new label). what i witnessed at each of these sites was some sporadic conservation and even more sporadic security. at the entrance of some caves guards were stationed, warning people against using flash and ensuring they removed their shoes. of course for every group of 50 that went in there were inevitably 1 or 2 who ended up using the flash either in ignorance or blatant disregard for the posted rules. at one point i was reprimanded for using a tripod (which, with its round plastic bottoms, surely did less damage than the feet of the 30 people who shuffle in there every other minute). as i was asking why this policy was in place, a buddhist family had gone up to the main idol to touch and take pictures with it. as the guard realized what was going on, he went (belatedly) to stop them, but as i pointed out to him - surely that's a more important problem than my 8 oz. tripod. then later at one of the more famous caves i was horrified to see scores of people going up and touching the reclining buddha figure. surely if my tripod's not allowed, that shouldn't be either. so, i suppose my final conclusion is that security is uneven and haphazard at best.

paintings everywhere

alright, back to the caves. we continued on admiring the impressive paintings (sadly few remain in good condition) and more buddhas figures. the final cave was that with the large reclining buddha. it was as impressive as the cave was crowded, including a japanese group that seemed bent on standing in front of the statue, taking pictures, and touching it as long as possible. not quite as quiet as the day before had been, but we still enjoyed the spectacular sites.

we hiked back, this time down through the small valley, past the vendors and back to our cab with a fanta for the road. one more night at our fabulous hotel and it was back to bombay the next day. from there it was just a quick stop in the city and then back to the airport. this time, bangkok-bound…

textile text

from the colors and kites of ahmedabad i headed towards the promise of deserts and textiles in kutch. a few hours spent mostly asleep at the back of a sleeper bus (they actually have beds with curtains - kind of like the 'knight bus' in harry potter. and often just as jerky) and i arrived in bhuj, the principal central destination and jumping off point for the area. the guest house i had tracked down was small and simple with a friendly staff.

earthquake damage inside the palace complex

the first day i spent wandering the town, which is rather unremarkable except for the earthquake damage that’s still visible throughout. the quake, in 2001, was fairly disastrous for the region and many of its oldest buildings and the remnants are still around. i saw the aina mahal, the foremost of the city’s few sights, which was little more than a few rooms of a once-great palace. the blue and white-tiled floor and the room covered in mirrors made for quite a sight. i capped off the day with some window shopping – perusing the markets, shops and stalls for embroidery work and snacks.

the next day it was off to discover what i had come here for: textiles! kutch is the home of all things textile in gujarat, which therefore makes it home to some of the best textiles in the country. there are hundreds of villages in the region, each of which specializes in a particular craft, be it embroidery (of all different styles), dyeing, or printing.

so the first day i set off in a rickshaw with lilli, a lovely finnish, london-based lady who takes off the month of december every year to travel and has been making her way through india for the last few of them. we stopped at various points along the way at small villages to wander, take pictures, enjoy chai, or snack on namkeen. we even crashed the early stages of a wedding at one point. ‘tis the season.

displaying her wedding dress

our first craft stop was in bhujodi, known for its embroidery - as many villages are. the work was indeed detailed and beautiful - full of mirrors (actually more of shiny silvery discs) and every color imaginable. the things they produce are amazing and surely take months to create. one can't help feeling though that they would be helped (commercially, at least) by creating items with a color palette that appeals to a more western aesthetic (as opposed to every color you can think of). the pieces we later saw in workshops and cooperatives (run by westerners, often) reflected this notion, but the women whose work we saw in their homes largely didn't.

prints on prints

our next stop was ajrakhpuram, the home of traditional wood block printing. (!!) dr.ismail mohammed khatri's family has been in this business for nine generations and seems to be the only family left in this business. we took a tour of the workshop although it was past 3 and the dr. explained that the sunlight, and therefore work, was largely over for the day. this was disappointing, but still seeing the dyes, long tables laid with cloth, and best of all - dozens and dozens of block designs, was still fascinating. after the requisite chai we were let loose to explore the fabrics and clothes in the cabinets. my excitement must have been noticeable because at some point lilli said 'you're in heaven, aren't you?'. was it that obvious? in the end i curbed my enthusiasm a bit and walked out with some fabric, a scarf and a bag. and the important information that one has to go to a different city/region to buy the actual wood blocks (i smell another trip to gujarat!)

our final, rather abbreviated, stop (too many village stops earlier, i suppose) was in madhapur,  a town that had some handloom work. we saw the giant looms but, again, nobody working them. and i was disappointed to find not handloom textiles but rather predominantly heavy woolen shawls and blankets.

sari i fell in love with

the next day i headed north, up into the bunni region, which requires a government permit for a reason i'm still not sure of. it was a bit farther than the last day's journey and the wind made the trip rather chilly. but along the way there were sights of marshes and all kinds of birds. again it was a day of visiting random little villages that one would never find without a guide. here there are all types of embroidery, including jat and rabari, which each use distinctive stitches and motifs.

desert dwelling

but the villages were also filled with fantastic architecture. traditional round mud huts called bhungs decorated with the ubiquitous gujarati mirrors and carved designs. the interiors were similarly bright - filled with brightly colored walls and carved and mirrored wooden furniture. being me (of course) i also took particular note of the doors. there seem to be so many similarities between these and ones i've seen in north africa. it makes me wonder if there's a universal 'desert' architecture - the mud carvings i also related to the arid landscape of niger and nigeria (or at least what i've seen in photos). at any rate it was as beautiful and ornate as the textiles we saw all over - usually accompanied by arms loaded with plastic bangles and weather-worn smiles.

my final day in the region was spent in mandvi which is a port city known for its beach and ship-building. the beach was incredibly underwhelming - a depressing little stretch of sand with a few snack stands and some horses tethered to stakes. the city itself was similarly unexciting, the 'market' leaving much to be desired (like shops, for instance). the ship-building, however, was an incredible sight. i wasn't expecting much, but tramping around seeing these enormous wooden structures propped up on shore, being made by hand, was pretty awe-inspiring. like watching noah's ark being built. was it worth the 30 rupee/one hour bus ride? yeah probably.

in short kutch was a lovely place with friendly people, unique sights, and of course, colors!

mumbai movie mania

well after all this travel it feels really good to get back into the city and stay put for a while. at last i've been able to feel settled in my place - i've found a tailor, got myself a pressure cooker.. things are starting to come together. i was also glad to be back in town in time for the mumbai film festival! at home i'm something of a movie junkie (except in richmond - which has an appalling lack of art theaters, especially for all the art students and hipsters it has) and i try to see interesting ones when time and budget allows.

the mumbai film festival, now in its 13th year, has become pretty big and internationally respected. this year it boasted 200 films from all over the world. and, being in india, it's also probably one of the more affordable film fests to attend (i was able to get a student pass - unlimited movies for 7 days for Rs 700 = $15). also, being in india, it was probably one of the more crowded film festivals. the lines for some of the highly anticipated films were over two hours! but perhaps this is normal at film festivals; i don't have much of a frame of reference here.

i thoroughly enjoyed being a part of this event and tried to make the most of my pass (though it was a pretty busy week). i ended up seeing some wonderful films that i thought i would share. it's true, this is perhaps not very travel-related. buut, it's my blog so too bad. if you're not interested in movies, read no further.

pather panchali (india, bengali)
the film festival had a nice mix of new movies and classics films, both indian and international. i took the chance to see the first of satyajit ray's monumental apu series on a big screen. and in style, i might add. this was in the director's gold theater, which meant everyone sat in their own armchair. i'm talking lazyboy-style recliner here, with a footrest and everything. but i'm getting off track. it is a satyajit ray film, so it's definitively in the category of 'art film'. as such it may often be described as slow or boring. but what he's done with point of view - telling the story through the eyes of little apu - and the subject matter (rural poverty) he brought to the fore, was groundbreaking. a great way to kick off my film fest experience, with a little indian film history.

deool (india, marathi)
the image for this film doesn't do it justice. (i might add, though it should be obvious, that the images here aren't mine. i mention this primarily because i generally like to use only my own images) though i suppose it does portray the dichotomy at work in the town. some people would dismiss this film out of hand because it's in marathi. but i don't think the language was chosen to be regionalistic or exclusionary, but rather for a sense of authenticity. the movie takes place in a village in maharashtra - a setting which contemporary indian films have largely strayed from. the film itself is really about breaking down and subverting typical stereotypes of indian villages as well as exploring the nature of religion and commercialism today. this is particularly poignant in the character of kesha (no dollar sign), a good but simple man who struggles with these ideas within himself. a wonderful film and thoroughly entertaining - with plenty of laughs and even a few item numbers. it releases in november in india - go check it out!

labrador/out of bounds (denmark, danish)
this movie wasn't my first choice. or even my second, actually. the lines for 'the artist' (showing on two screens!) proved too long and 'chinese take out' was rescheduled so i ended up seeing this movie without being entirely sure what to expect. but it was actually about what one might expect from a typical 'artsy' film. slow, pensive and rather bleak in both setting and subject. i think this film could best be encapsulated as an exploration of identity, with each of the three characters isolated on a tiny scandinavian island grappling with themselves and their relationships to one another. it took an odd turn that was sort of unsettling but i'm guessing the director intended this turn of events to startle the viewer and expose the extremes and complexities of human desire.


arranged happiness (germany, kashmiri/english)
there seems to be no end to movies that deal with the notion of arranged marriages. it's a topic that evidently still fascinates the west and this director created a personal documentary in attempts to better understand and explain the phenomenon on a closer level. the film dealt with the proposed marriage of the director's then-boyfriend's (now husband's) sister to a neighboring family in kashmir. it chronicled this entire process while also examining the director's relationship to ashiq, the bride's brother and how their relationship is played out (largely in secret) with the family. it's an interesting and intimate look at the process of marriage and one that is refreshingly apolitical. i didn't find the editing or cinematography of the film particularly outstanding but the story itself unfolds nicely and has some pleasant images.

toast (UK, english)
what a lovely film. and one that further corroborates my theory that all movies starring young british boys are delightful (see also: millions, son of rambow, finding neverland, about a boy, etc etc). the premise itself is charming, a10-year old boy who yearns for all things gourmet but, in the character's own words, 'has never eaten a vegetable that didn't come from a can'. his passion for food plays out throughout the more troubling events in his life (helena bonham carter plays a sort of wicked stepmother) and becomes a source of joy in an increasingly bleak existence. the movie ends on a high note and leaves a good taste in your mouth, so to speak.

stanley ka dabba (india, hindi)
back to back movies about food. warning: don't watch this movie if you're hungry! (and happen to love indian food) every conceivable type of food and snack is represented here (yes even vada pav - it was filmed in mumbai after all). the film was a heartwarming story of stanley, an incredibly adorable child. one of those 'unfortunates with a heart of gold' types. you don't learn stanley's whole story right away, but you're drawn to his good natured ways and clever charm. the film shows one side of the inequalities of society without being over the top dramatic or utterly devastating. this film will certainly put a smile on your face and a growl in your stomach.

breakfast, lunch, dinner (china/ thailand/singapore, mandarin/thai/malay)
this film, oddly, had little to do with food at all. in reality it was three films, all asian in origin, that happened to include different meals. the stories also shared the common thread of marriage, which was addressed in very different ways. the films, having different directors, naturally had individual narrative styles. but they all seemed to share a sense of loneliness - whether it was in a bleak deserted chinese park in winter, or the hauntingly empty streets of singapore by night. i think each film really addressed that notion on a metaphysical level as well - the idea of being alone with someone else and how the concept of marriage fits into that. each of the films made use of very long shots of simple actions (or little action at all) which could have bordered on the tedious but i thought the technique was effective as a means of getting the audience to totally feel a part of that setting. not a power punch of a film but a quiet meditation on what it means to be alone and together.

habemus papum (italy, italian)
i was totally intrigued by the storyline here: a behind-the-scenes look (well, interpretation - it's fictional) at the selection of a new pope. i thought the story would end with the selection itself but in reality that's just where the story began. with moments of humor and little winks of tongue in cheek satire the film addresses the intersection between holy and divine that the pope must necessarily negotiate. i'd love to get some of my catholic friends' perspective on the film as well. tragically, i had to leave this film early to catch the artist (having waited for 30 minutes in line and still missed it before. and i should add that this film screening began 30 minutes late so that threw me off) but i really would love to see the end of it as it seems like the director was building to something particularly poignant.

the artist (france, english)
as i alluded to earlier, this film was probably the cornerstone of the film festival (images of it adorned much of the festival's publications) and easily one of the most - if not the most - highly anticipated film. and it was well worth the wait! like many before it, this film is an homage to the movies themselves. a silent film, it deals with the beginning of the golden age of film and the shift to talkies. think of a cross between 'singin' in the rain' and 'sunset boulevard'. the film was made beautifully and the casting was absolutely spot on. the protagonist, george valentin, seemed to be a mix of (appropriately) rudolph valentino and gene kelly. it was refreshing that this film got the attention it did. in a festival full of movies that try to push boundaries and to, in some cases, be edgy for the sake of being edgy, it was nice to see a sweet, simple film that honored the idea of entertainment itself and reminded us why we were all there in the first place.

pina (germany, various)
along with 'the artist' was perhaps the other most anticipated film showing at the festival (though lars von trier's 'melancholia' was a popular draw as well). and not just because it was in 3D. the film was an homage to the late pina bausch, a monumental german dancer and choreographer who died in 2009. though i hadn't heard of her before this film, the impact of her work was made clear not only through her work but by the devotion and admiration of her dancers. pina herself was evidently somewhat reclusive and so the film unfolds largely through performances interspersed with statements from the dancers themselves. the dances were visually stunning, provocative and cerebral, meditating on ideas of the cycle of life and gender in society (at least that's what i got!) the performances themselves were enhanced with a thoughtful use of 3D technology (not this gratuitous crap we get in hollywood. justin bieber 3D, really?). plus i'm always interested to see how people interpret the seminal 'rite of spring'. though i would have liked to see more of pina herself performing, it's clear that her legacy really lives on in the dancers she's trained and the spirit of the dances she has created. a visually stunning film to end my festival experience.

all in all, despite some issues (technical problems with films, overcrowding and crazy lines) i thoroughly enjoyed the film festival. i wished i could have seen more movies but i think i still made the most of the pass within my means. furthermore, i walked out of every film with that sensation of 'where am i..?', an indication of the transportive (it's a word, i checked) power of the medium itself.

garba galore..

so the real reason i came to ahmedabad (although buying textiles was pretty high up there..) was for navratri, which is sometimes called the biggest dance festival in the world. it's nine straight nights of dancing - all over the city, on all scales. the dancing ranges from street garba to societies (sort of like gated communities) to the giant clubs that put on all-out productions with live music on stage and expensive lighting. on this trip we tried to hit them all.

first off.. club garba..

twirling

our first introduction to all that is garba was at the rajpath club (read: fancy). this ended up being a crash course. we wore our variously borrowed and purchased chaniya choli and bedecked ourselves in things that glittered and jingled. good thing, too, because we were probably the least adorned people there (as if we don't stand out enough). to say they were decked out does not come close. i'd say the average person there was probably wearing close to 8 pounds of fabric, embroidery, mirrors, bells, sequins, tassles, and let't not forget makeup. all tied together with a few strategic safety pins. but that did not stop them from moving. as soon as our friends (well my friend's friends from garba class. yes, class) arrived they formed circle, put their shoes in the middle, and jumped right in.

so coordinated (in more ways than one)

let me tell you, that was some complicated garba. there were many more than the two steps i had been briefly taught. and then they kept changing them! these people were going pretty fast too, definitely working up a sweat (though, in fairness, not difficult with the lights and 15 pounds of material they were under). kristen and i tried our best not to run into people (did i mention they were constantly switching directions?!) for a while but eventually gave up in favor of watching and documenting. we wandered all over taking pictures and videos of all sorts of groups - the most impressive was probably this one troupe - matching outfits and all - that had all sorts of choreographed routines, including, variously, men balancing umbrellas, little girls dancing on shoulders, and what looked to be mini dance-offs.

even the kids are impressive with the dandiya!

we saw all kinds of dances - with twirling umbrellas, throwing sticks (dandiya is the kind with the sticks, i believe) into the air (and, yes, catching them), and little kids getting into the mix. i think it would best be described as a spectacle. eventually kristen and i meandered back to our group where they themselves had moved on to the sequined umbrellas. we were ceremoniously pushed into the crowd and umbrellas were thrust at us. we were made to do a step that involved minimal twirling and stepping, thankfully something we could handle. we did this in various directions as photos and videos were taken around us. luckily that seemed to be enough to assuage the circle and we slipped out of the spotlight with our dignity more or less intact. we slipped out of the festivities not long after, though our friend did stay to be honored as the 'best foreign dancer' - very sweet. as we were speeding home in our auto afterward, chugging water and glad to be seated, my main thought was 'how do these people do this for nine nights?!'

i got my answer shortly, once we experienced society garba..

the closest i got to street garba. my feet did get pretty dirty!

so many of the neighborhoods in ahmedabad are comprised of societies that seem to vary in size and level of affluence. i'm sure their celebrations vary similarly but i only saw a few examples. in general they seem to be much more tame affairs, with one big circle, a few musicians and pretty slow, simple music. the dress code seems to be much more relaxed - some fully decked out in chaniya choli, others in salwar kameez and some just in western attire. and, best of all, the steps are much more limited. one direction, one half turn, same basic idea throughout. i can handle this! i'm glad to say i caught on to this one rather quickly and quite enjoyed it. i could see myself doing this for nine nights. although going in circles does eventually get tiresome..

street garba..

..it seems, is more of the same, just outside the confines of a society. the dance is done around a pot (society ones seem to be also) and other items for the deity. i've heard talk of women with pots on heads dancing, unfortunately i didn't get to see much of this variety.

but we also experienced what i'm calling university garba..

a variety of attire for this garba affair

as the name may suggest, we experienced this one at one of the local universities. most universities have various events throughout the festival but we were told by several people that the one at CEPT (environmental planning and technology) was particularly good. it must have been because there was quite a clamor to get in. i'm not sure how we did - persistence, maybe - but regardless. here once again the dress and attitude was varied - all kinds of clothing. the dancing seemed to be more or less the same slow, steady pace with half turns every other beat. there were two large circles and what we were first struck by was that no one was really smiling all that much. i mean, i suppose all that going in circles must get to you eventually. although, to be fair, this was punctuated about every 5 minutes by a big 'woooo' that went through the crowd. we're still not sure why. nothing else seemed to happen. probably the best part of this experience for me was the decorations, though i'm sure that had to do more with it being a school for architects. there were all sorts of lanterns made from little more than cut paper or cardboard. really well done.

i'm sure this is by no means an exhaustive list of the types of garba one can see - just what i experienced in a few days. i mean, after all, it was the biggest dance festival in the world.